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 Post subject: rebuild tips??
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 5:29 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:49 pm
Posts: 42
Location: whitehall pa
Car Model:
i'm picking up a a 68 slant six soon and i was wondering if there was anyway i could kick the compression up a bit
i plan on doing a full gasket kit ,
a high volume oil pump new piston runs and main bearings.
also my offenhauster intake along with duals
as far as the cylinder head is the old style slant 6 cylinder head with the tube seals not as good as a mid 80s cylinder head?
any help would be much appricated :)
thanks
-frank


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 Post subject: Some of this and that...
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
You will need to measure everything while disassembling...then will have to measure after machining to dial it in, so if you are increasing compression you know how much to tell the machinist to deck the block or shave the head. Compression is going to be relative to the build and how much cam you have chosen. The 1968 cylinder head is fine, but does not have hardened seats and it is usually worth it if you're going to have the guides and valves redone, you might as well have the seats updated. Unless you are worried about loose tolerances I won't recommend the HV oil pump, if you do decide on it, contact Doc for one of his hardened gears, the stock oil pump or the normal melling version will be fine for street/strip.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:42 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
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+1 on NOT using a HV oil pump. Remember the stock head gasket was a .020 steel shim gasket and the new Felpro or??? is about .038 so you loose .018 just by changing gaskets. So use this in your calculations.
I prefer the "old" heads with the drool tubes.
My02.
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:45 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:49 pm
Posts: 42
Location: whitehall pa
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as far as cam ,what lift duration do you recommend?
i was looking at the comp cams set up with new springs and a timing set along with the cam.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:05 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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On a basic rebuild it is better to have your old cam reground to a taller profile. If it has lasted this long it is well proven. You can't say that for some of the Comp cams.
I had my old cam reground by Delta Cam in Tacoma, WA for $35.00. I have heard from Reed their price went up to $45, but it is still a good deal.

When you have the head and block shaved and cam reground it balances out so you can continue to use the same stock push rods.
It will help to save a few bucks. :D

I went with the E254 .435 grind, next one up is a .465 lift. The E254 has alot of torque right off idle and gets great mileage. It is lots of fun o drive.

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:21 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13092
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
+1 on the cam regrind. It cost me $80 total at Delta Cams for a cam regrind and 12 reground lifters. The turnaround was very fast and it is still about half the cost of any other new cam you get.

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