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 Post subject: Lower End Knock
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:19 pm
Posts: 138
Location: little rock, AR
Car Model:
I bought a non running '63 Valiant that supposedly just needed a timing chain. Seller(preacher) didnt tell the truth. The motor was locked up. Pulled the head and replaced pistons and rings with new ones. Honed cyls and put in new clevite rod bearings. Old main bearings looked good and checked one main and it looked good. I replaced timing chain and gears and oil pump, new valve seals. I torqued everthing to specs. I got it running and everthing sounded good at idle and when reving it up. However you put it in gear(automatic) and it has a lower end knock. So i pulled the engine and looked at the mains and rods and everthing looked good ie. no brass showing on bearings. So what am I missing???


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 Post subject: TQ Bolt
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Are all the torque convertor bolts tight?

Sometimes if one is a bit loose it can sound like a knock.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:38 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:19 pm
Posts: 138
Location: little rock, AR
Car Model:
That was my first check hoping one was loose. No such luck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7425
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Small end rod bearings. Check the wrist pins.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:07 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:19 pm
Posts: 138
Location: little rock, AR
Car Model:
I'll give and update tomorrow when I pull the crank out and mic the journals. The new pistons came with new pins. When you have this kind of problem you want something to be obvious.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:32 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:36 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Lebanon, Or
Car Model:
Beware of the "new" oil pump. I know of several people that have had oil pump drive gear failures very soon after installing a "new" pump. The drive gears are too soft, and get eaten away very quickly. This might not be your current problem, but may show up way too soon.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:43 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:19 pm
Posts: 138
Location: little rock, AR
Car Model:
Yea I read that in some of the posts on this site. I would have used the old oil pump but I couldn't get the relieve valve out of the housing. I did keep the old pump for the gear that was in good shape. I bought this car because it was in good shape and not a rust bucket to sell to someone to get into and old car inexpensively for car shows. My labor and material costs are going to eat my lunch. I can't turn back now. Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8798
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Check the crankshaft end play.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16846
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Also make sure to check if the harmonic balancer has split down the keyway. That happened to me on my first buildup and it sounded just like a rod knock at low idle in gear.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:48 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:15 am
Posts: 418
Location: York NE
Car Model:
Also check flexplate to crank bolts. I had that happen once, thought a main was gone, but was quiet in neutral.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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