For at least the 10th time I revised the plan for my 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger. As it stands it has a 225 Slant Six and an A-904 T-Flite transmission along with the stock 7 1/4" rear with 2.76 open gears. She needs alot of body work but other than the nessecary repairs, here's the plans. It's currently awaiting a Super Six conversion.

Engine
Dual 3" cold air intake
2-bbl Carter Carburettor
2-bbl Cast Iron intake (port and polished)
Head work: .070" decked off, 3-angle valve job, 1.70" intake valve, 1.40" exhaust valve, port and polish job.
Erson Cam #E47031 254/254 duration, 4.35/4.35 lift
Cleaned up oil and water passages

Exhaust
Dual custom headers- 7/8" primaries, 2" collectors
2" X-pipe
Dual 2" exhaust
Dual 2" brand "X" turbo mufflers

Drive Train
A-833 4-speed manual O.D. transmission (2.50:1-1st, 1.70:1-2nd, 1:1-3rd, .64:1-4th)
A-body pistol grip shifter (courtesy of gunslinger)
A-body 8 3/4" rear with 3.91 posi gears
A-body 8 3/4" BBP axles

Suspension
Small Block V8 torsion bars
MP SS leaf springs, relocated inward to clear bigger tires
Kyb Gas shocks
Addco front+rear sway bar kit
Polygraphite bushings

Brakes
1973 and + BBP spindles (front)
1973 and + BBP sliding disc brake setup (front)
Unknown rear brake setup BBP

Wheels
15x6" Magnum 500 road wheels (front)
15x8" Magnum 500 road wheels (back)

Body
A-body 4-speed transmission tunnel
Custom bolt-in subframe connectors
Possibly a mini-tub if necessary to fit the wheels I want

Still need imput on clutch and rear brake selection (preferably disc brakes). Could also use imput on anything else that I seem to have left out.

What makes you think you need or particularly want rear disc brakes...? What's the goal?

Why custom subframe connectors when you can get ready-made bolt-in or weld-in ones for under $150/pair?

Replace KYB shocks by Edelbrock IAS units

Look into Hellwig sway bars instead of Addco

Engine plan looks good

Mopars do not have "Posi", they have Sure-Grip.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I don't know, I guess it was just something that sounded good (wow that sounded bad). I take it your implying that 10' Drums would be sufficent?
I didn't realize they run that cheap, i was just thinking home made to get around the price tag.
I forgot to mention, the car is for cornering on hilly roads, not drag racing. Would you still recomend those? Or should I stick with the KYB's.
What's wrong with Addco? Is there something I haven't heard about them like when I found out about Clifford Performance? Or is Hellwig just a better choice?
Thanks, been planning for awhile now.
Oh, I've heard them called that before but I didn't know they were strictly called Sure Grip.

Thaks for the great imput!

I forgot to mention the car is gonna be used for the occasional tire shredding and the seat-of-the-pants thrill rides through Burke County's curvey, hilly, roads. I also intend to embarrass a few ricers too. I also noticed I forgot the mini-tubs (only if required) and spring relocation to fit the rear tires. I'm gonna go add that to the list.

BTW: The budget is super-tight

Yup. Doing stuff just because it seems like a cool idea can drain your wallet in a big hurry. Beware feature creep, which is a fast and costly way to destroy a car and your enthusiasm for it. See here and here. You are definitely on the right track by drawing up plans, discussing and revising them before buying parts or taking things apart. Next steps are to prioritise the upgrades and budget time and money for them.
Absolutely yes. Put in the smaller rear wheel cylinders (see here) to fix the premature rear lockup these cars suffered from, and spend elsewhere the money and time you'd've wasted on rear discs.
Definitely. As much better as KYBs are than parts store junk, the Edelbrock IAS are that much better than the KYBs...and they don't cost that much more, either.
Not a thing. They've been building good bars for years. So have Hellwig.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

TILT! That changes everything. Unless you're planning on doing this list of upgrades over a period of many years, you are going to need to revise your plans downward a lot.

(also: tubs and relocated springs? )

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Tubs and relocated springs are only needed if your drag raceing and need big slicks to hook up,you do not need them.Guzzi Mark

Where'd you get the custom OD tranny? Stock A-833 OD is 3.09 1st, 1.67-2nd, 1:1-3rd, and .73-OD

as far as subframe connectors- if you want to keep from hacking the body much, go with the weld in ones. bolt in ones, while they will stiffen it up, still let alot of flex, and dont tie into the floor pans that i know of. whenever i get around to doing the ones in my duster, ill simply go and buy about 10 or 12 feet of 2"x3"x 1/8" rectulanger tubing and cut slits in the floor pan to fit it through, effectively tieing in both front and rear channels

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1975 Plymouth Duster,225/6 2bbl. and duels, 904, 7 1/4
1986 Dodge Charger Shelby, 2.2 Turbo I, A525

I'm hoping to finish by the end of the decade. Right now my focus is finishing school and getting through college.

Can you not swap transmission ratios like you can in a rear end? If not, then doesn't gear vendors make an O.D. unit for the regular 4-speeds? Cause that'll be my next choice.

In regards to the mini-tubs and spring relocation comments, thats a last resort to try and fit 60 series tires out back. If they fit stock, then I'll leave it alone. If not, then the spring relocation will occur, and hopefully not the mini-tubs. Besides that, the rear fender wells are kinda rusty anyways so...

I know you say "why 8" rims with 60 series tires?" I just like the look of big meats.

Uh, no... the counter shaft gear is a solid set, so you are stuck with the OD ratio set or the straight box ratio set... if you're going to blow the $$$ on the Gear Vendor set, you might as well go T-5 conversion at this point.

-D.Idiot

Matt,

You forgot to include recurving your distributor on the engine build. It makes a huge difference even on a stock motor.

I drive on allot of hilly back country roads every day to work and back. The Edelbrock IAS shocks are the best if your pushing it. They are amazing....I didn't think a shock could make that much difference.

I am running the biggest Hellwig bar on the front.
Also .892 V8 torsion bars on the front and 6 leaf rears.

P215 60's on the front and P235 or P225 60's on the rear, BF Goodrich T/A radials, on 7" rims. They track like a cat. Great in the snow.....and ice.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Doesn't that make safety problems in traffic, Ted, if every time someone uses an electric can opener your tires hear it and the car veers off in that direction?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.