Hi all,
New owner of 65 Barracuda with a slant 6 thanks to my Dad who is relocating across country and decided he was not going to bring it along this time. He's had it since 1980. Valve cover has a breather cap on one end and a standoff where the PCV valve? goes on the other. PCV valve will rotate around in the standoff, is loose, but will not come out! Removing the valve cover and looking shows a cover plate over the breather cap location as well as the PCV valve location. Any suggestions on how to get the PCV valve out? Technican Service Manual is on it's way.

Thanks!

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

The valve and its round cup just pull straight up off the vave cover together as an assembly, then you remove the valve from the cup. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. The car will need periodic valve adjustment. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The old PCV valve grommet is probably pretty hard by now. You can buy a new one and simplify the removal procedure. For a while. They cook pretty quickly!

Most FAPS have them. FAPS is for Favorite Auto Parts Store, in case the term is new.

Welcome to SlantSix dot Org!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

'65 valve covers don't have a PCV grommet. That started in '66.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

See? Learn something new every day!

Sorry for the misdirection.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Should be a metal cup slid over the stand off, sometimes the gasket gets broken or not replaced and the cup will be pushed down too far and is hard to remove. Try using a small thin flat object under the lip of the cup to lift it up. Once off there is a nut holding the metal spring clip to the bottom of the PCV valve.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks for the excellent info! Will try to get standoff separated from the valve cover. It's on there tight, tried initially to "lift" it off. Will report back with progress. Thanks Again everyone! What a great forum...

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

There's no gasket as original equipment on the pre-'66 "chimney and cup" setup.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well I removed the valve cover, turned it upside down. doused the chimney with penetrating oil for a couple days, tried to remove the cap off the chimney with no luck. used rubber mallet to try and help loosen the cap by tapping around the sides while pulling up on PCV Valve at the same time. Also tried to get a flathead screwdriver under he lip of the cap but there is really no material to pry up against ant the screwdriver kept slipping. May need to cut a curve in it to get better bite. Did not see any real movement. Next step is to immerse the chimney in WD40 for a few days, then try again. Just how high is the chimney off the surface of the valve cover? Any other ideas? Thanks again!

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

It is about 3/4" tall.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

WD-40 is useless as a penetrant. Use Kroil, PB Blaster, or Coca-Cola. The chimney is about 3/4" tall. SOunds like your cap is rusted onto the chimney.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Coca Cola will soften rust, or if that doesn't work you can try Naval Jelly.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Yup -- same chemical (phosphoric acid) in Coca-Cola and in Naval Jelly. Coke can take longer to work, but can creep in tighter gaps than the gel.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Will try Coca Cola first. Suspect rust is the cause based on the inside of the valve cover. Thanks again for the help.

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

Use electrolytic derusting!

Find a plastic container large enough to hold the rusty part (a tall trash can). Fill the container with water and dissolve ~1 tablespoon of sodium carbonate (a/k/a "washing soda", available in the laundry soap aisle of the supermarket; a/k/a "pH increaser", available at pool/spa suppliers and hardware stores). The amount of sodium carbonate is not critical. If you can't find sodium carbonate, use baking soda (sodium hydrogen carbonate); it works, but not as well. I do not recommend using lye (sodium hydroxide) due to the damage it will do to your skin, eyes, etc if it splashes on you. Put the rusty part in the container with a length of scrap steel (old bed frames are free on trash pickup day...remove the paint with a wire wheel; concrete rebar also works well). Do not allow the two to touch.

Connect a "dumb" battery charger ("smart" chargers will not work for this). The negative clip goes to the rusty part, and the clip can be submerged. The positive clip goes to the scrap steel, which becomes the sacrificial anode. Keep the positive clip out of the liquid, or it will corrode away. Switch on the charger. Bubbles and brown scum will form on the surface of the water.

Depending on the amount of rust and size of the part, anywhere from an hour to several days may be required. The process works line-of-sight, so it may be necessary to turn the rusty part periodically so its different sides face the anode. Scrape the rust off the anode periodically. Rust in crevices will dissolve given enough time.

DO NOT reach into the liquid unless you shut off the charger. The red rust will fall off the part, and a layer of loosly adhered black rust will remain. This can be easily removed with a wire wheel. Rinse the part with hot water and dry it with a blow dryer or heat gun. There's no rust protection, so flash rust can immediately form. For best results when painting, apply a conversion treatment first (e.g. DuPont 5717S and 224S).

Electrolytic derusting does not attack sound metal (any acid bath does). Poorly adhered paint will be lifted. Small amounts of oil/greese will be removed by the alkalinity of the solution, though its best to degrease the part first. There's a video demonstration of the process on the MML website. www.moparmailinglist.com

The waste liquid is not hazardous and you can pour it into the sanitary sewer. The pile of rust at the bottom can be put in the trash or turned into the soil in the blueberry or raspberry patch of your garden. It will fertilize plants that require large amounts of iron in the soil.

Note that use of phosphoric acid will leave an etched line at the liquid/air interface if the part is partially submerged. This is due to atmospheric oxygen dissolving into the liquid's surface and attacking the metal. Electrolytic derusting does not have this problem, so large parts can be processed in sections.

A good product for derusting small parts is www.safestrustremover.com Its very expensive, so I use it for stuff like nuts and bolts, which are tedious to process electrolytically, and for large unweildy parts like frame sections or body panels on the car. It works very well for freeing rusted threaded fasteners. Just toss the parts in and let them soak for a day. The derusted small parts can be put in a vibratory tumbler for final cleaning and polishing.

Ken