Hi, my water pump by pass hose(I think that's what its called), the little hose about 3 inches or so long going from the top of the water pump into the head, is leaking quite profusely. It seems to be the factory hose so I am going to replace it. Does replacing this require taking the water pump off completely? If not, is there a trick to replacing this without removing the water pump? It seems like it would be very hard to bend that short of a hose into that small of an area... Thanks

If you get lucky you can bend a new piece in there, but it is usually much easier to just remove the pump.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The water pump is much easier to remove than the cylinder head. I've never replaced the bypass hose with the water pump in place, but it has probably been done.

_________________
Joshua

its really very easy. dont take the water pump off. lower the coolant level in the engine by draining a few quarts from the radiator with a screw driver unscrew or pry off the clamps. if you have the old style oe clamps, squeeze the ends together with pliers and pull them toward the center of the hose. slice the hose with a razor knife vertically at both ends and pull the hose off. measure the length precisely including the two pipe ends which you have cleaned. take the new hose and warm it up in hot water to get it lose and soft(pliable) put the two new ring gear clamps in themiddle ofthe hose. put some antifreeze on the inside of the hose ends to lubricate and make the hose easier to slide on the pipe ends. bend the warm hose and slip the ends on the pipes. make sure the hose ends are snugged up all around , move and tighten the ring gear clamps. done many of them like this. good luck paladin

i never remove water pump,cut hose to length, leave clamps off untill you have tried this a few times, spray with wd-40 or some kind of lube,put the hose fully on the pump side, now take a large flat screw driver and push the back side of the hose under the head side nipple, the hose should kink in the middle and slip over the pipe when you pull the screw driver back.

Just did it on my SL6 barn find like Terry said a few weeks ago. It is not hard with new hose and some grease on each fitting.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The job is done, worked real slick after I put my hose in hot water til it was very pliable. Thanks!

Do not use any type of petroleum product on the hose. It will attack the rubber. Use "rubber lube" (the stuff the tire shop uses when mounting tires), antifreeze or dish detergent.

Spring-type hose clamps are better than the worm type because they maintain constant clamping pressure as the hose expands and contracts with temperature changes. Just search the cars at the junkyard for the same diameter hose. Using flat spring type clamps gives you an excuse...er...reason to own the cable-operated tool to reach the buried clamps in late model cars. As for worm clamps, the shielded style is *required* if for silicone hose and for fuel injection hose, and is preferred for conventional rubber hose. The shielded clamps do not expose the rubber to the slots in the band. Not all the auto parts stores carry shielded clamps, but they're available by the box from industrial suppliers like MSC. www.mscdirect.com

Ken



Ken

I should have stated that the assembly grease I use is Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It is a milky white almost clear grease. I bought a case from our local distributor. I use it on all the hoses for many years with excellent results.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG