Hey guys!

70 dart custom/225

So here's my issue. The ignition lock (piece you turn to start the car, in case my vocabulary isn't correct) seems to be faulty. Everything works fine, but when you release the key after starting it, it cuts the engine off while in the 'on' position. If you hold the key towards the 'start' position, only by a millimeter, the car stays running. So obviously there's a weird connection issue.

My question is, is it worth it to try to replace the tumbler/lock/gizmo first? Or is it more likely something inside the column? The tumbler comes out easily, and looks like it's normal, though I don't have a reference.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Sounds electrical to me. See if you have power to the coil in the on/run position. Could also be the ballast resistor.

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Joshua

Yup, first suspect is your ignition switch, which is what the lock tumbler operates with its rotating lever. Second suspect (and much easier to change) is the ballast resistor under the hood. It's a white ceramic block with two wires attached to it, located over near the driver's side of the firewall.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

But, why would it be the ballast resistor if I can hold the ignition lock towards 'start' and have it work just fine. Not ON start but towards it. Like I said, just seems like a faulty connection from the tumbler to the ignition lock part inside the steering column. How can I remove the tumbler? The one in that car pulls right out, but I have access to a very similiar make and model that I'd like to try the tumbler from THAT car to see if that's the part that needs to be replaced. Any ideas?

You could add a ON switch for testing..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

The "tumbler" part you mean is the part that rotates with the key; the actual switch is behind it. Replacing the tumbler part won't help at all if it's the switch, and the switch + lock is replaced as an assembly. Most can be rekeyed if you are very careful.

First, triple check that the problem isn't at the ballast, bulkhead, or column connectors - they're much easier to get at and more likely to give problems. Remember than in crank the ballast is bypassed. Use a multimeter at the column connector to convince yourself the switch is flaky - it's a fair amount of effort to replace. I can't remember the year that they put steering wheel locks on, but I presume you have one.

To replace the switch, start by getting the factory service manual (FSM), steering wheel puller, lock place compressor, and some small punches. The only really hard part is to get the retaining clip off the lockplate and avoiding dropping anything down inside the column.

I have ripped a lock out using a dent puller w/o damage to the column, but I don't recommend it.

Again, definitely take a multimeter to the ignition switch connector on the column and verify the switch is bad - I've never replaced a lock because the switch when bad.

you can replace the switch it will solve your problem

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locksmith