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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:59 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Its quite possible that a gear made of the same material could work out in the long term. Can someone post some pics of this gear please. Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:30 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pu ... report.htm

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:32 pm 
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Just put a Chev gear pattern on the cam ........or Ford...or....

Then we can buy pump gears from Summit.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:44 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Ford or Chev gear will not work. Both have gear OD's of 1.245" and slant 6 oil pump housing is 1.125" or TOO BIG to fit in the block hole. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Quote:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pump-gear/failure-fix-report.htm
Thanks for the link. One thing that I have personally experienced with race engines that use flat tappets and high volume pumps, is that any time you have excessive distributor gear wear, it usually can be traced back to too much cam walk, or improper gera meshing. On many of the dirt track engines I have built, the RPM's are up to about 8500 down the straights, and decelerated to maybe as low as 4000 RPM in the turns for 50-75 laps, and will last 3-4 racing seasons just fine without excessive wear. With engines that use timing chains, the cams natural tendency to try and come out the front of the engine really works on the distributor if it isn't retained with a thrust button or thrust plate.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Lincolnton, North Carolina
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$650-$675 range
:shock: Wow... that's alot of money. Not saying that isn't a competitive price. I guess this is something else to add to my list of things to save for. By the way (on to question #3) is this forseen price range for a cam or for the complete kit?

On to my second question of the thread: What kinds of grinds will you be offering? Street, strip, both?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:37 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:54 pm
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Location: Lincolnton, North Carolina
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Quote:
Ford or Chev gear will not work. Both have gear OD's of 1.245" and slant 6 oil pump housing is 1.125" or TOO BIG to fit in the block hole. :roll:
I'm assuming that means it's not possible to machine the hole in the block .120"?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:49 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1343
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
$650-$675 range
:shock: Wow... that's alot of money. Not saying that isn't a competitive price. I guess this is something else to add to my list of things to save for. By the way (on to question #3) is this forseen price range for a cam or for the complete kit?

On to my second question of the thread: What kinds of grinds will you be offering? Street, strip, both?
It does seem kinda' high if you are not in the mainstream of inline racing, when you can buy a Small Block Chevy roller cam for $250 bucks. Inlines have for decades been at the back of the pack compared to our V8 rivals, and the more popular engines always get the most attention because of supply and demand. One of my recent Ford inline customers just got a quote from Schneider for $800 for a roller cam for his 300 engine. Another reason for a higher cost for inline cams is it takes more material and more machine run time to make them, so it is more in the labor and material that makes the costs higher than a shorter V8 style cam.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:20 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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Responce to boring hole bigger-- the center line of the pump would be in the same place. But the gear on the cam would have to be smaller than it is now to make it work :roll: :shock: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Dartman, forgot to answer your second question. I am planning to offer profiles for street, strip and all out race applications if needed.

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 Post subject: And...
PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Wow... that's alot of money. Not saying that isn't a competitive price. I guess this is something else to add to my list of things to save for. By the way (on to question #3) is this forseen price range for a cam or for the complete kit?
Considering the Cox Brother's Cam blank was $1000-$1200 + you send it to a cam grinder... and you are still in it at $400+ for lifters...$650+grinding+ lifters isn't a bad thing...

What kind of base circle are you planning to start with? 0.4"?

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Re: And...
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:09 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1343
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
Wow... that's alot of money. Not saying that isn't a competitive price. I guess this is something else to add to my list of things to save for. By the way (on to question #3) is this forseen price range for a cam or for the complete kit?
Considering the Cox Brother's Cam blank was $1000-$1200 + you send it to a cam grinder... and you are still in it at $400+ for lifters...$650+grinding+ lifters isn't a bad thing...

What kind of base circle are you planning to start with? 0.4"?

-D.Idiot
Actually Duster, the $650 cost is for a finish ground cam ready to stick in the engine. You just have to buy lifters and do something about the oil pump and distributor gears. And of course the valve springs and other valvetrain components. So again for $650 bucks, the cam is completely finish ground to your specs, copper plated, heat treated, and the distributor gear is machined on the cam and ready to install in the engine. So compared to the cam blanks offered by others in the past, it is by far a much better deal.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:38 am 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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Quote:
Its quite possible that a gear made of the same material could work out in the long term. Can someone post some pics of this gear please. Thanks
Any way you could do the oil pump gear? The dist. gear is some sort of plastic already and doesn't seem to cause any real problems.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:52 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1343
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Sure, I'll be glad to look into it and see what can be done to improve the longevity of it.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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I have made the oil pump drive gears out of C630 bronze alloy and those hold-up well. (aluminum nickel bronze)
I actually have one in my daily driver street car and it has been fine. (about 8000 miles on it so far)

Making these gears is pretty easy.
DD

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