Hello

I have an 87 d150 /6 4spd pickup. I'm going to try to decipher the wiring diagram tonight but I recently lost brake and turn signal lights. I have running lights and the crazy thing is that the hazards still work so Im guessing the wiring to the bright side of the 1157's is still good.

I checked the fuses but it's dark and Im tired so I could have missed a blown one. Should I be checking if the flasher pot is good? I think the fuse block has two pots on it maybe 2 flashers or maybe Im new and don't know what I'm looking at...

Any wiring gurus out there that can work any guessing magic with these ingredients? I'm in the middle of moving to a new house so I could use all the help I can get.

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madam im adam

You're correct that the wiring to the 1157s is fine if the hazards work, as are the bulbs themselves. There are two flashers: one for the hazards and one for the turn signals. They are both located on the fuse block. But I don't think the flasher's your problem if the brake lights are also dead. I think you've got a faulty turn signal switch, which is the point of intersection between the brake and rear turn signal circuits. Power for the brake lights goes thru the turn signal switch.

Do your front turn signals work at all, even if only to light up steadily?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Second the turn signal switch. Been there, done that.

No steady light either. If I could just toggle the signal I wouldn't be as annoyed. Really it only bothers me that I have no brake lights. I can hand signal turns but the brake lights are definitely a safety issue.

I was screwing around with the fuse block looking for a good hot to wire up a steady switch to turn on my msd ignition. I have used two different wires that used to feed the leanburn as IGN+ triggers for the msd ignition and both seemed good ( key on 12v) but ended up not giving me reliable power.

I was hoping to find something I screwed up or disconnected. I am not looking foreward to digging into the collumn.

I guess my next step is to open up the 10pin connector for turn signals and check continuity. Also it would be a good idea to re-visit the fuse box and investigate the brake switch. Maybe if it's good I can feed it off a new fused constant hot. Brakes should light up with the Ign off right?

Anyway, thanks fellas. More later

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madam im adam

SlantSixDan: Eric W: Me:

Easy test department:

Before pulling the steering wheel, gently push on the directional signal lever while applying the brakes & than pull it to see if the brake lights come on. Chances are good that mechanism has gotten sloppy, and no longer is making good contacts within to complete the brake & directional circuits.

My 1967 suffered from sloppy switch syndrome which screwed up the brake & signal light circuits. By chance one day I had the garage door down with low light conditions enabling one to see if the rear lights were burning, and manipulated my switch as described above which caused these lights to operate as intended.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have a spare turn signal switch of known good condition. It's yours for the price of postage. Came from an `84 D100 with low miles.Shoot me a PM.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

The '84 switch will fit the '87 truck as long as they both have a non-tilt steering column.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I gotta work 12-8 today.

I will get a chance to re-check connections and put a meter on it tonight. I still think I had to have knocked something loose when I set up the switched power for the MSD. I ended up using the power window fuse to power it- I have manual windows

According to haynes (I know I know) there is a 10 pin connector for the turn signals off the column. It also has a chart with which holes should connect to which holes (holes meaning wires) under which circumstances (like stalk set to L turn, set to R, etc.)

I'll report back when I find out what is wrong, or when I set the truck on fire, whichever comes first.

If it turns out to be a bad switch, and not a bad 12v feed to the switch, I will definitely take you up on your offer. Thanks.

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madam im adam

There are two power feeds to the switch. One from the brake light switch, and one from the turn signal flasher. The fact that neither function works points at the switch.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's a little chilly out and dark too but I did some investigating. There is good news and bad news under my dash.

The good news: my problems seem to stem from a dead row in my fusebox. Radio turn sig lamps and wipers. The row on one side of it is constant hot and the other side is Ign. hot.

The bad news: the box was already hacked. The wiper slot has a non factory orange wire with a female spade connector holding the formerly protected side of the wiper fuse. The other side of the fuse is the common rail that feeds radio turn lamps and wipers.

I'm thinking that the new orange wire was backfeeding the system. It goes to a wire nut with a couple other wires. I'm thinking one is for the wiper switch and one 12v hot thats not hot any more.

My thought at this point is that the deterioration of this power source could be the cause of other problems and Im lucky it didn't let the smoke out of my harness. Gotta check for melted fusable links etc. and more hacks. Since the remaining ign. switched power in the fuse box is fed by a pretty thick wire that feeds the heater fan and hazards I think I should be able to feed the turn lamps and wipers (radio deleted) and clean up the wire nut mess.

Any thoughts from cyberspace?

Thanks again for the ideas fellas.



I'm thinking about splitting the

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madam im adam

man, I think it might be easier to change the whole dash. That sounds bad I know, but good wiring under the dash would be worth the peace-of-mind. The McGuyvered {love that term} rats nest you are describing does not sound too reliable.

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1979 W150 Shortbox
225, NP435, 9 1/4, Dana 44

The Good Life.

Thanks for the help fellas

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madam im adam

I'm going to add on to this thread since I have a similar problem:

I suspect my turn signal switch is at fault, because previously, my right turn signal would freeze on when I flipped the lever up. Now my right turn signal works fine, but the left one up front freezes on and the rear doesn't come on at all.

The right side brake light doesn't work either, I've checked the bulbs and even replaced them. I tried pushing in the turn signal switch and then pulling it out, but that didn't do anything, wouldn't push in or pull out noticeably at all, so it doesn't seem to be gone sloppy...

Does it sound like the turn signal switch to you all? Anyone know the part number? I've not been able to find a good answer as yet as to the right part number... (mine is a '77 Dodge Aspen 2door)

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have a running '77 Dodge Aspen, saving for a paint job, then I'll put up a pic...

Eldon, you are definitely in need of a new turn signal switch. RockAuto.com is a good resource for doing parts lookup. So is http://www.standardbrand.com .

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks, Dan! I'm going to search it out, but I think I saw an online step by step instructional somewhere, so I can do the job and not get stuck unexpectedly. (I drive my car to work and back 5 days a week)

Is all I need a steering wheel puller, or do I need to have something to pull the column housing off also? I saw a special tool mentioned for pulling the column housing and the ad for it said that it's the only safe way to pull the housing without messing up threads, etc...

Thanks also for the parts link recommendations.

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have a running '77 Dodge Aspen, saving for a paint job, then I'll put up a pic...