recently picked up a 51 cranbrook. motor is tired and burning oil (valves or rings). I found a rebuilt slant 6 out of a mid to late 60's van that has never been installed (built about a year ago) with three speed trans for a sweetheart deal. any comments or suggestions on the amount of fab swapping will take? I have 10 years as a line mech, but have never done a custom swap job. The exhaust is an issue off the bat being that the flat head runs header on pass side, but thats something I can work out. any advice would be great! thanks

Well, since no one will reply, I'll just repeat what everyone tells me, "put a 350 in it"

Running and hiding, ducking for cover.

My reply is if you have a torch and a welder go for it. I have a \6 in my '53 Ford (some fabrication needed)
All in all the flathead is shorter might need to move radiator forward some.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I with Fopar on this ....GO FOR IT ....keep on roddin'

I have to say that I'm not sure what a '51 Cranbrook is. However, a slant six in just about ANY old vehicle gets a thumbs up from me, as far as it being a worthwhile project.
I say that if you have the inclination, go for it!

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Cranbrook was the top-of-the-line Plymouth model from '51 to '53.

Okay, thanks.
Yeah, I'm sure that a slant would look good in an old Plymouth's engine bay.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Is the "3 speed trans" a automatic or a 3-speed manual, using the automatic trans will make this swap easy.

There are a couple of ways you can do this swap, one popular way is to use the front subframe assembly out of a Mopar F-body... you will get better suspension and front disc brakes by doing that swap.

As for simply installing the engine / trans. into the 51, be sure to carefully mark the current crank centerline onto the chassis befor removing the current engine. Then lower the SL6 into position, lining-up to the mark(s).
Weld-up some mounting and then make any other pieces needed to hook everything up.
DD

I kinda feel the same way about replacing a flathead with a slant that I would about replacing a slant with a 350 OK, not *quite* the same

Go for it if you want, the slant pretty much fits in the same kinds of spaces as the old flathead. You may have to "massage" the engine bay interior panel on the passenger's side, at least if you ever want to see your distributor again. The driver's side should be fine. Engine mounts will be from scratch because the flathead used "floating power" mounts.

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Thinking about the same deal . have a 50 ply, bz cp. and a possible 225 auto from a 82 pick up.. so any info or pics as you go will be appreciated... Thanks.....

Seems to me the best way to go about this would be to use the spool mount engine brackets, then fab up some ears to weld to the original crossmember. That way you'd only be changing the drive train and shaft. The rest of the chassis parts shouldn't be too hard to get, once you find a supplier.
I don't know offhand, if those used a ball&trunnion, closed, or open driveshaft, but it's possible you may have to modify the frame, depending on what type of driveshaft.

The front subframe swap that Doc mentioned is also a good idea, but more work. It would give you an updated suspension and brakes, a ready-made mouning setup for the slant, and better steering. The wheel lug pattern would probably be different, requiring a change at the rear axles, but wheel choices would probably open up for you.

Whatever way you go about it, do keep us updated, and try hard to take pics as you progress. The info would be valuable to future builders.

Roger