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 Post subject: Carb questions
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:01 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:33 am
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Location: Front Royal, Va
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This carb is on my '72 Duster. What Holley is it and who sells the best rebuild kit for it?

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1972 Plymouth Duster 225
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:44 am 
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That is a Holley 1920 carburetor. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to Holley 1920 repair/modification threads are here. The best mass-market rebuild kits are made by Walker, who also supply new floats (you'll need one). Additional tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this thread.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:14 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: Front Royal, Va
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Thanks for the info Dan

The issues at hand are:
*a slight hesitation off idle
*need to pump the throttle excessively to get it started (warm or cold, the fuel filter still has gas in it)
*and the worst problem. it leaks gas out ont the manifold when I shut it off after a long drive

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1972 Plymouth Duster 225
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:19 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:54 pm
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Location: Lincolnton, North Carolina
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I'm not sure, but the starting problem sounds like a mal-adjusted choke.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:51 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
a slight hesitation off idle
Probably an accelerator pump issue.
Quote:
need to pump the throttle excessively to get it started (warm or cold
If it were only cold, that would suggest choke issues. But you can't get the car started when it's warm without pumping the gas first? That's...bizarre!
Quote:
it leaks gas out ont the manifold when I shut it off after a long drive
Could be a leaky bowl cover and/or worn throttle shaft/bushing junction.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:32 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13051
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
*a slight hesitation off idle
*need to pump the throttle excessively to get it started (warm or cold, the fuel filter still has gas in it)
*and the worst problem. it leaks gas out ont the manifold when I shut it off after a long drive
The combination of these three symptoms suggests to me that the throttle shaft bushing is worn causing a vacuum leak (hesitation and need to pump gas when warm) and fuel leak after shutoff.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:14 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:33 am
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Location: Front Royal, Va
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is the throttle shaft bushing part of the rebuild kit?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:51 am 
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There's no prefab bushing, this is a precision machining operation—not just a simple matter of removing a worn-out bushing and installing a new one. From the factory, the steel throttle shaft bears directly on the potmetal throttle body itself. With use and age, the hole in the throttle body gets wallered-out (a Texas term meaning "wallowed out") and air leaks in at the throttle shaft/body junction. The repair operation consists of carefully marking the placement and orientation of the throttle plates relative to the shaft and body, removing them, removing the shaft, overboring the throttle body, and installing bronze, brass or Delrin bushings to restore a tight fit that still permits free movement of the throttle shaft.

It's been years since I had one of these done. I used to patronise G&S Auto and Machine, who advertised the service in Hemmings and happened to be local to me. They charged about $35 to $45 depending on the type of carburetor, and offered fast turnaround. 303-795-1412; they may still be rebushing throttle bodies. Or, option "B", probably better, see here.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 6:42 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
*need to pump the throttle excessively to get it started (warm or cold, the fuel filter still has gas in it)
*and the worst problem. it leaks gas out ont the manifold when I shut it off after a long drive

I run the same 1920 style carb like yours. Some of the hot start problem is from heat soak. Gas evaporates out and or vapor locks.

Once you have the carb rebuilt, I would suggest doing Dan's fuel line mod and making a heat deflector for under the carb to reduce heat soak.

Take a look at the pictures of my setup. Click on the red link below my name. Once the pictures come up double click on them and it will go into full screen slide show mode. There are some good carb shots in the series.
The mods really help on hot days after long runs. It's nice to jump back in your ride and have it fire off right away.......... :) :) :)

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:46 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:11 am
Posts: 17
Location: Austin, Texas... ya'll
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Newbie here (obviously I'm sure). A friend pointed me to this website as the place for me to get information/help on getting this truck up and running.

Ok so I just got an early '79 model (which is the body of the '78's actually) Dodge Step-Side: 225 Slant 6

Gig is by the numbers on the carb (9731AAA) it seems to be a Holley 1945. Looking at the parts list on the Slant 6 website it's telling me Holley 1920.

Not that I know I have to replace or rebuild it however the cost seems to be minimal for either (the '45 being about $48 more) and replacing also seems a lot easier than rebuilding (does that sound naive?) ... so my deal is - CONFUSION!

Did it originally come w/a 1920 and at some point someone put on a 1945? Which do I go with?

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Last edited by _Sean_ on Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:10 am 
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Welcome on the board. That parts list you're looking at is badly out of date and the information it contains is not of good quality. The original carb on your truck would be a 1945, not a 1920. Your type 9731 is a 1945 carb. Don't buy a "remanufactured" or rebuilt carb off a parts store shelf (real or virtual); they're junk, see here. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this thread.

If your carburetor is in basically sound condition, try a careful cleaning and rebuilding with a good quality kit (Walker makes the best mass-market kit, and they also supply a brass float to replace the original plastic foam item in the 1945 carb). If that doesn't get the job done or if your carburetor is in such bad shape as to be not worth rebuilding, I have one new 1945 left in stock; send me a PM.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:18 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:11 am
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Location: Austin, Texas... ya'll
Car Model:
Cool, thanks Dan. I'll check out the videos over some lunch in a bit.

I'll know this weekend as for the carb. For now I'm going off what dude told me when I picked up the truck last week. I'm just getting her ready to crank back up for the first time in nearly three years.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:55 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:11 am
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Location: Austin, Texas... ya'll
Car Model:
Ok back on the carb topic... I've been doing a LOT of research over the past month (thanks for the links) prior to attempting working on this truck beyond some basic prep boredom. In my reading I came across something that peaked my curiosity as for increasing gas mileage as well as power. Is it a good idea for me to (and more to the point can I) replace the Holly 1945 with a Holley 4 barrel 4160 w/o having to swap out the manifold? FYI "1979" (I quote because I know the body isn't a '79) .225 I may be putting an exclamation point on my being a novice but regardless from what I've read this makes sense IF I wind up having to change out the carb completely. Otherwise if it's beyond a re-build I'll just take Dan's advice and order his that he has in stock, sticking with the original.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:37 am 
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Quote:
something that peaked my curiosity as for increasing gas mileage as well as power. Is it a good idea for me to (and more to the point can I) replace the Holly 1945 with a Holley 4 barrel 4160 w/o having to swap out the manifold?
No. It's a poor idea. It's counterproductive (much too much carburetor, which means much poorer economy) and not possible (4bbl carburetor won't fit on 1bbl intake).
Quote:
this makes sense
No, it doesn't make any.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:41 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:11 am
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Location: Austin, Texas... ya'll
Car Model:
I didn't understand it when I read it and I figured you'd tell me I was crazy so I bookmarked where I read it. Here's the quote:
Quote:
The carb is a Holley 4 barrel 4160 series which is recommended for engines in the 150-300 displacment; it has a 390 cfm rating which will work well with street and strip usage.
It's the last sentence of the 5th paragraph under "Creating a new Hyper-Pak (by Jerry Engle)" which is about 1/2 way down the page here.

Possibly I took that out of context. Regardless I've read enough around here to know that you're the man with the answers.

Thanks again.


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