I have a solid Purple cam for a slant that I want to put into my Hydraulic lifter 1983 slant motor. Will I be able to just swap it straight across. Adjustable rockers, solid lifter and new pushrods or will it not work with the different block?

Thanks

Jeff

So long as you use an all mechanical lifter valve train, it will all bolt right in and work.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Interesting, does that work in the other direction? If I have an older block, when I do an overhaul can I change out the solid lifters with hydraulic? I think there's a couple oil passages that need to be drilled out, but when the time comes I think I would like that option. Can it really be done?

Yes and no. To swap a mechanical lifter motor to hydraulic, you need (a) hydraulic cam, (b) hydraulic lifters, (c) hydraulic pushrods (they are hollow for the oil to get to the lifters), (d) hydraulic rocker arms, and (e) a grooved rear cam bearing to allow sufficient oil flow up to the head to get down into the pushrods to pump up the lifters. It's possible to go mechanical to hydraulic, but it takes more work.

On a hydraulic motor the oil travels past the rear cam bearing, up into the rocker arm shaft, into the rocker arms, down the pushrods, and into the lifters. Here is the rub- hydraulic motors were introduced in 1981. By 1981, all slants had the smaller plug head with no drool tubes. When the heads changed to to the non-drool tube design, the rearmost rocker arm shaft bolt switched to a stepped design. I have never determined if this stepped bolt permits fro more oil flow. All slants run oil through the rocker arm shaft to get oil to the rocker arms. Hydraulic slants only need 4-6 PSI of oil pressure to pressurize the lifters. Whether or not a drool tube head with the non-stepped rear rocker shaft bolt will create sufficient oil flow and PSI to pump up hydraulic lifters is unknown to me. Maybe someone else can chime in.

I would think that with the rear cam bearing swapped to a hydraulic one, you would likely be okay, but I am not 100% on this.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I keep seeing this stated, about the grooved rear cam bearing. This is not correct. The groove is not in the bearing, it is on the cam journal, itself. In fact, I have seen several new solid cams with the grooved journal, instead of the drilled holes. It looks like the cam manufactures are using hydraulic blanks for both cams.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The last one I broke open did not have the groove in the rear bearing, it looked like the standard set of bearings I would get for the solid motor...

But a question does arise:

The fed-mog bearings for the standard solid motor are part number is 1454M..but the hydro motor version is part number is 1473M...anyone order the other number to see if it comes with a front and rear grooved bearing instead of just one?

-D.Idiot

Sorry. I guess I have read the same things you have and am repeating bad info. Listen to Charlie and DI-they know much more than I do.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The hydro bearing set has a grooved front bearing, where the solid set does not have a groove in the front bearing. What is interesting, is the cam bearings have different numbers on the bearings, themselves, between the solid and hydro sets, except for the rear bearing, which is the same in both sets.

Edit: I have a couple of sets of bearing for the solid engine, and only the FM brand set has a grooved front bearing.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes, as others have described, but be aware of the much more limited cam selection for the hydro lifters -- and the factory hydro-lifter cam is pretty pathetic.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey, that's good…as long as the groove is deep and wide enough to carry the appropriate volume of oil, seems like that would eliminate the problems we've been seeing with improperly-drilled oil holes on the solid cam blanks.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Interesting, I dropped and engine off at my machinists and I know the 1454 had one grooved bearing...I almost asked my machinist to install it in the rear bearing spot then blue and scrape it...

Hmmmm...

-D.Idiot

Just found something else, interesting. According to the Sealed Power catalog. Chrys car.

Cam bearings set 1454M is for 1960-1978
Cam bearing set 1473M is for 1979-1983

Lifters solid AT-2084 Mech. 1960-1980
Lifters Hyd HT-2089 1981-1983

Cam CS-380 1960-1980
Cam CS-709 1981-1083

This means the cam bearings changed before the change to the Hydro cam.
I wonder if it was a change in the block that required the change in bearings. I have never had a late slant block apart to see if there are any differences. The plot thickens.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I actually have a 1979 Aspen cast crank block in the beater valiant with a 1974 head on it, and I put in the 1454 cam bearings without any problems...it also has a comp cam in it and it's still going strong as well...

so ????

-D.Idiot

Or else it means somebody made an error in the catalogue.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So, I guess we need to look at a genuwine chrysler parts book, for 79-80-81 and see what it says.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225