Well the clutch fan acts as you said, stiff and damped at rest. Just got done checking the thermostat and its ok too. What I've just found though is some dampness right where the head and block meet right above the distributor. I tried to follow the dampness around to where I removed the thermostat. It didn't go that far. Its not coming from the valve cover. I don't like jumping to expensive conclusions but it seams that its seeping from the head gasket. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Please, someone tell me I'm wrong. Can't afford to deal with that right now.

Warm the engine and try re-torquing the head bolts... see if that helps.
DD

Allot of times that is just oil that accumulates on the ledge inside by the push rods and wicks out and runs along the block above the distributor etc. There should be no water at that point. I wouldn't worry about that.

What is your compression like on each cylinder?

If it continues to run too hot and you need to do some hauling with the truck, install a 180 stat for awhile. That should help to keep you safe until you figure out your problem.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I'll try to re-torque the head. I don't have a compression tester so I don't know. Thanks. Luckily its not a truck its a station wagon, and its my project car so its not my main mode of transportation, although when it is running properly it will probably get better gas mileage than my pickup.

If the car left the factory with any sort of air dam or rubber flaps around or below the radiator, make sure they're still present and in good condition. If they're missing, the airflow through the radiator can be disrupted.

Missing air dams is a common problem on late model cars. Drivers pull into parking stalls too far and the air dams are broken off by hitting the bump stops or curb. They remove the dangling part, and suddenly the car is overheating on the highway, but not at idle.

Ken

I'm not sure about this car having an air dam or not. I have heard that though. I had an expert locally look at it and we came to find that a substantial amount of air was trapped in the system. I thought I got it all but I guess not. Anyway, I've only had time for one test run putting it into the situation where the problem occurred and the temp stayed steady. I'll take it for a few more test runs this week to verify. I want to thank all of you that sounded of on this, I really appreciate the help.

I always drill a 1/8 inch hole in thermostat and place hole at 12 o'clock...this allows air to escape,but is small enough not to interfere with warmup


keep on roddin'

Loose or glazed fan belt.

A 1/8 inch hole *will* interfere with warmup in winter. If you insist on drilling a hole, make it no larger than 1/16 inch.

I have seen thermostats that have a tiny check valve in the flange, which allows trapped air to bleed. Sorry I don't recall the brand.

Ken