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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 4:44 pm 
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SSRN National Champion
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Doint yall make me have to make a post here . This aint rocket science. Thanks Ron Parker :D

How Many Bagels Could Bagel Bagel If Bagel Could Bagel Bagels About 400


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:43 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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well i just did the valve lash for the first time. and man was it fun tyring to keep the rachet on the rockers. it took me over an hour to get them dialed in right and what a difference it made. i can feel a little more power on take off.
i think i have problem i took off the the whole rocker assembly and took every thing off to clean it i didn't mark what side of the bar was the front. i do know the long blot in the rear and the big spacer in the middle. there didn't seem to be much oil spraying gout like everyone says there should be.

i have noticed low oil pressure the las few weeks. so this week i'll be checking the oil pump. and i do have a leak that seems to be coming from there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:53 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 9:08 am
Posts: 355
Location: Chelsea, MI
Car Model: 71 Dodge D100 64 Plymouth Valiant Wagon
Use a lightweight combination wrench to adjust the valve lash--the box end. It will stay on, is much lighter than a ratchet, so will have less effect, and gives you a more direct feel.

It really is a lot of fun once you get going with it. Just put some cardboard underneath the engine and check the oil afterwards.

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:07 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Troy, Texas
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If you're doubtful about the pressure or quantity of oil getting to the rockers, pull the rear shaft mounting bolt (long one) and check the oil passageway coming up through the pedestal to make sure it isn't clogged. Mine was clogged solid with years of baked oil sludge, allowing no oil to get up to the rocker shaft.

If you examine the rocker arms themselves closely, you'll see they are stamped steel with tiny grooves for the oil to flow to the valve train. I had several of them clogged, as well. Once they were cleaned out, I was surprised to learn that the oil more or less dribbles, rather than squirts. Not near as much a mess as I feared, too.

Jerry

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Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:56 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:57 pm
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Location: Newport, Ohio
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Just an observation re: this whole thread...

Adjusting the valves on solid lifter engines has always been somewhat of a black art for me despite reading many articles / threads about how to do this.

After reading Dan's excellent post today i think i finally have enough confidence to try this. I am printing this thread and intend to keep it as a permanent reference.


Thanks Again Dan for sharing your encyclopedic knowledge of slant six engines


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:43 am 
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Y'welcome! :-)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 1:12 pm 
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Sure, you bet! Let us know how it goes. It is always nice to hear your ride purring along.

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Aggressive Ted

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:25 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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well, i moved my response post to here:

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=275105#275105

which is my intro post. and YEAH! it went great! read all about it!

josh was an absolute angel for coming over and doing this work. he made it look so easy....the more i know, the more i know i don't know.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:03 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Houston
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I know this is an old thread....but I have to throw in my two bits and say "Thanks" to Dan for posting such a thorough tutorial on how to adjust the valves on a /6.

It's stuff like this that makes some forums superior to others.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 6:09 pm 
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Glad to help out!

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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 9:50 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 21
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OK...I see why to set them hot but why do I set my 5.9 Cummins cold to .010/.020 or .011/.021 cold....and its fine.
I have been doing this for a number of years. Are the 225 cid motors that different?

Thank you
Rick


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 10:26 am 
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Quote:
why do I set my 5.9 Cummins cold to .010/.020 or .011/.021 cold....and its fine.
Very simple: different engines, different service procedures.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:39 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:51 pm
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Location: New Zealand
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Just have to dredge this thread up and join the others in thanking Dan for posting these instructions on setting valve lash.
Just been out and done this job on my 225, and like others I'm really happy with the result. I had set them previously having got the engine hot but didn't have it running when setting them, had done it several times but always ended up with a happy tappet or 2. Engine sounds the best it has ever sounded now, and I'm very happy with the result.
Whilst Dan's instructions look long-winded, its actually a very simple way to do it, and I think actually easier. At least you don't have to try and tension up the belt and turn the motor by hand.
Thanks again Dan

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63 Valiant AP5, 225, 3sp


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:48 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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I use my teeth. Grrrrrr!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:52 pm 
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Supercharged
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Posts: 13051
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
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I use my teeth. Grrrrrr!
:?:
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