One other thing to mention...

The Bouchillon Throttle Bracket comes slightly curved. The problem is, it is designed to bolt to the "left side" of a carb, not the "right side" as required on the Weber DG. When we flip it upside-down and bolt it to the "right side" of the carb, that curvature becomes an issue. I put it in my 3-ton arbor press and flattened it out. Putting it on a firm surface and smacking it with a sledge hammer would probably end up with much the same result.

Thanks for the info and pics!!!

That air cleaner adapter looks like a restriction doesn't it? I'm sure it is fine for a stock engine.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Clifford makes a hot water manifold heater(sets under) ............keep your eyes on e-bay.......bought mine for 20.00 and they work. If I'm not mistaken offy also makes a heater of some sort. Might ck them out also
max

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012

I thought so, too. I measured it up and had a friend (calculus whiz) figure up the area of both "half-moon" sides vs. the area of the carburetor throats. It turns out that there is considerably more area through the air cleaner adapter than there is through the butterflies of the carb - therefore, there shouldn't be a restriction.

An added benefit of using the Super Six manifold for the Weber carb is that it is heated by exhaust from the exhaust manifold. The Super Six manifold bolts to the top of the exhaust manifold the same way that the factory 1-bbl manifold does. I imagine this would be an even better system than a water-warmed manifold, since the exhaust gets hot immediately.

Of course, if you are running a 4-bbl manifold, the Offy or Clifford adapters are our best bet (although, isn't the Offy a weld-on?).

One thing I had to add to the shopping list:

* Accelerator Cable Stud - Bouchillon Performance

The throttle cable on a '74 Duster connects directly to a hole in the sheet metal part of the throttle lever on the 1-bbl carb. I don't know if all 1-bbl carb were done this way. Bottom line is that there is no accelerator cable stud. I should have paid more attention when I pulled the old manifold/carb!

Don't know what I was thinking..............I guess that you were running an aftermarket manifold. It would be nice to figure out how to warm it even faster huh?

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012

Keep in mind, though that comparing these engines to a slant 6 is kind of an apples-to-oranges situation. That little 2.0 liter Pinto engine put out 110 HP in its stock configuration, compared to 145 HP from a stock 225 slant 6. Even though the slant is 1.85 times the Pinto's displacement, the slant only makes 1.32 times more horsepower. I have to assume that the reason for this is due to the fact that the slant is a "torquey" lower-RPM engine , while the Pinto is a high-revving OHC engine.

Also consider that the same carb upgrade available for a built slant 6 is also available for a tiny 2.0L Pinto - Offy (among others) built a 4-bbl intake for the Pinto engine too.

I don't think the difference in carburetion between these engines is as large as the difference in displacement would seem to dictate. I had the 2.3L version of the Pinto engine in a Ranger I owned, and the butterfly on the throttle body was impressively large for such a small engine.

I would go so far as to argue that the 32/36 is the better choice for the slant 6 if you are installing it on a stock daily driver (with gas prices what they are). It should yield better fuel mileage and comparable performance to the original 1-bbl. The 38/38 would be a performance upgrade, and the better choice for a "weekend cruiser" or an "enhanced" engine.

For reference:
Stock 1-bbl - 200 CFM
Carter BBD - 285 CFM
Weber 32/36 (DGEV) - 300 CFM
Weber 38/38 (DGES) - 400 CFM

http://www.rasoenterprises.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=49

True enough...either Weber would be an improvement over a poorly performing stock carb. The 32/36 should get better mileage and better performance than a stock 1 bbl. It all depends on driving habits and the tune of the carb. Properly tuned, a Weber 38/38 should get at least the same mileage as a stock 1 bbl, and the performance is quite notable.

I have both--no question (for me that is) that the 38/38 is a more consistent and better performer than the 32/36. Frankly I haven't noticed a mileage difference that is relevant. I suspect that I do NOT have my foot in it as much with the 32/36.

If I had to choose just one Weber it would be the 38/38. It provides the most possible options for a Slant. Now, I DO drive a truck. The brick like aerodynamics and weight limit the mileage possibilites. The only tricky part of the 32/36 is tweaking the secondary idle jet in order to be bog free when the secondary opens. The 38/38 is smmmooootthhhh and just delivers power with no bog...some people report better mileage with a 38/38. I imagine driving habits mean everything in that case...

Either Weber is a fine choice. You better enjoy carb tuning...it is fun.

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Slanted D150

Great pics! Thanks for posting them!!!

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

When I did this to a Ford 200 inline, trying to eliminate that bog drove me nuts! By severely enriching the secondary idle and accelerator pump jets, I finally managed to get rid of it - but only on a hot engine. You really couldn't open up the secondary until the engine came up to temp - otherwise, it felt like it would die. I am certainly no carb expert, so there may have still been something I was missing. It also might just have been a problem with that terrible Ford "log" head/manifold.

I really wish Weber still made the DCHD carb - with its vacuum secondary, it would be a better choice for a daily driver than the mechanical DG or DF progressives. Unfortunately, the DCHD hasn't been made in a long time and parts are hard to come by. It's strange to me that Weber originally made its name designing 2-bbl progressive carbs with vacuum secondaries but doesn't seem to produce anything of the sort anymore!

Tuning these Webers is definitely a time-consuming process (and a bit of an artform). Last time, it took me several weeks of tweaking/driving to get it figured out. Something else to not overlook when doing this swap is the necessity to purchase a selection of jets. This can unexpectedly raise the cost of a Weber swap significantly (and require a bit of lead time). The cheapest place I have found to purchase jets is from a guy in Italy selling on Ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/ALFA1750S-CARBUR ... ARTS-STORE

Yep, jets are a must. Damn things are easily lost when dropped too! I figure that you need to add about $50 or so for a jet kit to the price of the Weber. I use the full up kit so I don't have to mess around with shipping jets one or two at a time.

I just logged a 100 mile stretch on I-90 driving 70 mph the entire way and I got 16.6 mpg with the Weber 38/38. I am jetting slightly lean per the A/F meter, about 17:1. That might not sound like great mileage but it is a 4200# D-150. I still need to get a better exhaust in it--that should help a little bit for performance and mileage.

The damn secondary bog on the Weber 32/36 is why I made the switch to the 38/38. I tried everything, larger secondary idle jets, tweaking the mains, air correctors, witchcraft, reading Dr. Seuss to it-- I never did get that bog to totally go away.

I am still sorting out the Weber 38/38 but I really can't praise it enough. What I have noticed is that the throttle position for equivalent performance is much different than the 32/36. Barely cracked open will get the 38/38 to do highway speeds, the 32/36 was quite a bit more open. Obviously the flow characteristics are involved with this.

Anyway, glad to see people going the Weber route.

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Slanted D150

Something else to watch out for:

The Weber to BBD adapter plates seem to be cast - not machined. Mine had a noticeable "high spot" in the center. I laid out a piece of emery cloth on a smooth surface and lapped the plates flat before installing.


Since this discussion has kind of gone the direction of a Weber how-to, it would be very helpful if some of you folks running Webers would post your jetting info here, too. I haven't seen too much info on this forum regarding Weber jetting.

After waiting for nearly a month with no feedback or responses from GPRS, I have ordered another intake to exhaust "hotbox" gasket from PP&R (pentastarparts.com.au). They shipped it the very next day, and even provided a tracking number.

It appears that a third OZ vendor (hemiperformance.com.au) also carries them.

Keep adding information to this thread, it's very informative. I've added it to the FAQ list in Engine. "Carburetor, Weber"

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing