I rebuilt the 2280 that is the stock carb for my van this morning. It feels like there is a drop in power as I approach 3/4-wide open throttle. My question is about the mechanical power valve adjustment.

The factory method is to set the curb idle speed, open the throttle all the way (with the motor off) and check for clearance between the screw in the actuator arm and the top of the mechanical power valve pushrod. I did this. However, there is still about 3/8-1/2 inch of travel left in the mechanical power valve push rod at WOT. If the carb is a WOT shouldn't the mechanical power valve be bottomed out?

Does this description make sense?

Note to self: When reassembling a carburetor upon teardown and rebuild, screw the venturis down completely- don't leave the screws finger tight so the venturis flop around in the throttle bore.

Problem solved, and now I can even get a little rubber with my 2.9 rear gears.

Hey Reed,

Thats the kind of stuff I do, think nothing of it. Heck piano players do stuff over end over until they get it right…

Here is an open invitation for you to utilize my “Red Neck Dynamometerâ€￾ anytime your over in my neck if the woods. I’ll have all that loose material cleaned up, from Dirt Man playing with his earth moving equipment around here, so you will get some good numbers.

A reenactment from a few weeks ago:

[img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/House/100_1236.jpg[/img]

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I can't get THAT much rubber, just a touch on one side. Maybe one I remove the original 27 year old catalytic converter I will do better...

Clorox baby, Clorox

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC