Dan, I was tuning tonight, in the garage, and the temp at the head went up to 235 degrees. The temp in the block was only 210. You remember I put Evans coolant in it 2 years ago. Should I be worried that this is getting too hot? It seemed very warm under the hood. In fact, I am considering switching back to the steel hood, with a more effective cooling design for it. Scoops look cool, but they don't really let out the heat, which is what is really needed here. I think Mega Squirt will allow me to set a higher temp for full fueling if it seems needed. That is if it gets leaner when it gets very warm as it did tonight.

Sam

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Kind of doubt it. Remember the boiling point of that Evans NPG+ coolant is 375°F, so at 235°F you're still well (140 fahrenheit degrees) below it; you're only at 62.7% of the boiling temp of the coolant. It can be difficult to steer the mind away from the usual frames of reference (pure water with a 15-pound cap boils at 250°F; 50/50 water/conventional coolant with a 15-pound cap boils at 264°F), in which your 235°F temp would be pretty close to the critical temp. To try and back-translate your present situation to the familiar frame of reference, 62.7% of the boiling point of 50/50 conventional coolant would be 166°F, which is so far from the critical temp that your main concern would be the deleterious effects of engine undertemperature. Remember: when you see more heat in the coolant, it means there's less in the metal, which is a good thing.
Why needed? What symptom are you trying to address? You've got fuel injection, so you don't have the carburetion-related limits on acceptable engine bay temperature.
If you've got the engine heating up because it's running too lean, correcting that lean condition will bring temps down...regardless of coolant formula.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

All good points. I guess you have me convinced the heat of the engine is not too high, but the ambient under-the-hood temperatures are just exteme right now. The reason to get the heat out of there is the turbo itself makes a lot of heat, and it seems the heat is just hard on the components under the hood, physically. Not to mention the hood itself, which has cracked before, and is cracking again now. I had to put supports around the perimeter of hood to keep it from sagging when it got hot. the It gets so hot you cannot touch anything under there. I have to use a screwdriver to flip up the throttle blade to adjust the stop. I cannot touch it with my hands. The way the scoops are designed, combined with the narrow restrictive design of A body inner fenders just traps that heat.

The yo-yo who had this car for awhile to supposedly tune it, removed the turbo heat shield, and threw it away. So now I should make a new one. The old one was not very pretty, but it worked. The turbo sits in there right in front of the brake master cylinder, so that is kind of an urgent saftey thing.

I have read studies that say engine wear is reduced with more heat. And, there is a potential for better economy with more heat, if it is tuned right.

I think I will start looking at ways to improve the airflow through the front, which is pretty wide open, and not directed at all. On my Miata there is a pan that reaches all the way forward to the air dam. They say if you take this off, (which some guys on the Miata forums want to do), the engine temps go up at the track. So getting the airflow handled up front has to be a good thing.

Thanks again for your time and thoughts on these things. I know you have a life outside of the forum as well.

Sam

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Sam, I recall the early turbo cars having large vents cut into the hood to allow air movement for cooling of the under-hood environment. We had an 86 Dodge Lancer turbo back in the day, and it got good and hot under the hood even with the factory 10â€￾ x 12â€￾ louver cut into the hood. Also that car had an electric fan cooling the radiator that would run after the car was shut down until it lowered temperatures to a safe level.

Perhaps you need more passive venting of manifold & exhaust pipe heat through the hood, and a way to remove excess heat from the cooling system after shut-down.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yup.
*blink blink* I do? :shrug:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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To make a long story short ,I once had a 914 Porsche, mid engine V-8. Corvette double pass rad. up front. There was no way to move the air from the trunk! Temps got up to 240deg. If you are creative you cut the inner fender wells in the back and replace the metal with expanded metal. A well placed cut about 5 in. circle on each side will not allow water or dirt from the road to enter the engine compartment. I combined those vents with a custom directional shroud and ran hoses to the fuel injection area ie: turbo through the fog light space, NASCAR style. Once I got the the air moving, it solved my problem. If you can stand the look you can also shim your hood near the windshield about 1/2 to 1 inch. this provision would probably will allow enough air move to solve your problem without going to the extremes I had to fabricate. I hope this helped with some ideas because It took me about a year to learn how much cfm was actually need to cool the thing.
Need less to say after I got it cooled down the car was a winner. Blow ....no rip the doors off any corvette that dared. Nice to have you on the forum . I was involved in the old days before this site in 1999. Good luck and best regards. I'm hooked on these/sixes.
ad taylor aka maxracer

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012

Thanks Dave ( Max). I will look at this challenge with creative eyes and mind. I feel capable of fabricating almost anything I can think up. But, thinking up the right thing is the challenge. So, basic theory is the big help right now. And, real world experience such as yours is priceless.

Sam

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