I will start out by saying I have recently purchased a 1963 Fury with a /6, 4-speed manual, and should have it some time next week. The dealer didn't know a whole lot about what had been done, but the engine was apparently just re-built with high performance pistons, cam, seals, etc... (that is the extent of the re-build the seller knew when I asked).

Sorry if these are "new guy" questions but I'm 100% new to the carb type motor, never owned a classic before now.

What gas needs to be run through these engines? Do I need octane booster and lead additive to avoid knocking?

What oil is needed? I have read numerous times about the removal of zinc in the newer oils which could lead to issues, but no clear direction as to what grade should be used.

I would assume that I have the 1bbl carb, so are there any mods that can be done to boost the performance a bit...more specifically power? (headers, carb, intake manifold, etc...)

I've read quite a few of the articles available but there is a lot to absorb for someone as new to this as I am...although I am not new to working on engines, just this style/vintage.

Sorry for the extended hello,
Jeff

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

I did look a little further into some options....I really like the looks of the Clifford headers with an x-pipe and their "Hyper Pak" intake with the 4bbl carb...I would get the Edelbrock carb to go with it though. Would I be better off sticking with just the 2bbl vs the 4bbl option?

Is this a decent starting spot? Again, without knowing what cam/pistons were re-built into my motor it's probably hard to tell huh?

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

I'd suggest you first, try to get the previous owner's contact info from the dealer. Then see what the p/o can tell you about the engine. The more you know, the better advice we can give you.

I would guess, at this point, that you won't need anything special for fuel. The slant had a rated 8.2:1 compression ratio, and most folks don't realize they can wake up the engine with just a head cut and/or block decking.

Don't apologize for the "new guy" questions. Everybody has to start at square one sometime, and yours just happens to be with this car. You'll find a great bunch of very intelligent and helpful folks here. Welcome to the board.

Roger

Welcome to the world of the Slant Six!

Figure out what you want the car to do, what it does now, and then how to make up the difference.

The factory service manual would be a really good thing to have at this point.

The answers to many of your questions will depend on exactly what has been done to the engine already.

Fuel requirements will depend in part on the compression, which is often increased in a performance rebuild, the ignition timing, how the car will be used, and a dozen other factors. My daily driver 225 has pretty close to stock compression, so I run unleaded regular.

I don't use any fuel or oil additives in my '64, aside from an occasional can of Seafoam or the like in the gas. It's had one valve job in the 23 years I've owned it. Hardened valve seats might have been installed in yours already.

Oil is a big area of debate. I run plain 10W-30 year-round in West Texas, but there are lots of good options. Again, what's been done to the engine, how do you intend to use it, and where?

If much "performance" work has been done on the engine, there may be a two- or four-barrel carburetor. on it. Whatever is on it, it can be improved.

By the way, '63 Furys are cool! Oh, and WE WANT PICTURES!

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Welcome on the board. Interesting non-stock combo (options were 3-speed manual or 3-speed automatic).
Mm. So you haven't actually seen the car yet, eh?
Ordinary unleaded pump gas—regular, mid-test, or high-test, depending on how the engine is configured (compression ratio, camshaft, ignition advance curves). Run the lowest octane fuel that lets the car run without pinging. Don't add lead substitutes or other additives.
A good brand of regular or synthetic oil, viscosity chosen according to the mechanical condition of the engine and the ambient temperatures in which the car will be operated, and without any extra additives.
That would be stock equipment, but it sounds like there have been some mods to the engine, so take lots of pictures and post a link to them here on the board so we can help you identify what you've got. It'd be nice if there were paperwork from the rebuild, but sounds like not.
The very first thing to do is order the three books described in this thread. They will get you quickly up to speed on how your old car works and how to work on it effectively.


When it comes time to buy parts, you'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.

But before you pick out any parts, first figure out and write down exactly what you want your car to do that it doesn't presently do. Not in terms of which parts look cool in the catalogue and sound nifty in web discussions, but in terms of performance, driveability, economy, steering, stopping, etc. (hint: make the car stop faster before you make it go faster). Then post your goals here and you'll get good quality advice steering you towards the most effective and cost-effective mods to make, and in what order. That Hyper-Pak intake and a set of headers would certainly look cool, no doubt, but they'd spoil the car's street driveability and fuel economy -- just for one example.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. And these engines require periodic valve adjustment.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks a lot for the info guys, I really appreciate it. The gas/oil question was really eating at me, so I'm glad to see it's not as big of an issue as I thought. I will try to get the original owner's info.

Here are 2 pictures (out of eight) from the original ad when I purchased the car...not a ton of detail obviously but once it comes in I will be sure to take tons

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

1. The actual compression is much lower than advertised, so you can run 87 octane just fine until you raise it up over 9.5 to 1 or put a wild HP cam in it. Raising compression is great! for more torque, just don't put in a wild cam in a heavy car.

2. Oil is an interesting question......many thoughts, however I run 0-30W Mobil 1 in both of mine. It runs great! The "standard" is a good 10-30W.

3. With the one barrel, do a distributor recurve. That will wake it up. Check out my engine build under the Engine FAQ, build sticky which is very mild for good low end grunt. Headers aren't a necessity, but 2.25" exhaust is a real help. Look at the stock factory truck engine set up with the Super Six 2 barrel. It produces some good power when used in a car. Many folks race with this setup.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

All of your responses thus far, especially Dan, are exactly why I joined this forum. I've got a lot to learn, and there's no better way to do it than with proper guidance.

I'll be sure to get some more info posted once this thing is in my garage and I have a chance to look at it in person. Being that the car was 1,000 miles from me, I didn't have that luxury initially.

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

Welcome to the site!
The body on your '63 looks straight, no dings or rust that I can see. Nice!

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Actually, I like the color. I have been thinking of painting my Volare that color.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Nice ride

Welcome aboard,you have found THE BEST spot on the web and have purchased not only a nice car but in most of our humble options THE BEST durn engine ever built Friend of mine had one like that years ago,it was red and he named it BOHAP,stood for Big Ol Harry A** Plymouth

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

haha, very nice....fitting nick name to an extent. Do I sense a bit of bias in the "THE BEST" engine ever built? Just joking of course, from what I read these things are basically bullet proof and are extremely reliable so I'm very excited to start learning the ins and outs of these wonderful, and extremely light, engines.

Just a quick "goal" for now...I would love to have around 250hp, this will be just a weekend/nice weather car, not a daily driver by any means (I have a 2008 Ram 1500 for that) and it will be stored in my garage during winter months...gas mileage is not too much of a concern, just looking to have something fun to drive, and get a nice rumble from the engine, since I never listen to the radio the engine is always the music to my ears.

I know that's not really a "goal" but it's a starting point for me right now. I will be sure to read up a lot more on the options I have and post specific questions...BUT in the meantime if any of you have any suggestions on how to safely reach the 250hp mark, please chime in, I'm all ears

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

ok, I looked through the list of manuals posted above....found the 1963 Plymouth Valiant Service Manual for $55 (part number 81-570-3067), which I am 100% sure I am going to need but is there any reason to get any of the other books listed on the moparmanuals site? I see a 1963 master parts book for $85, 62-65 production option codes book, and a parts and casting number book.

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1963 Plymouth Fury 4-door, 225 /6, 3-speed manual w/ OD, "super six", Mopar electronic ignition

Why? Forget horsepower numbers, they're just numbers, worthless for anything but quoting and BSing over beer. Chasing a random number will usually wind up costing you a great deal of money, time, and effort and wind you up with an unsatisfactory result. What do you want the car to do?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.