hey guys. well ive put 5000 miles on my slant, and i want to try and get more out of it.
its a 225. bored .040 over, basically a stock rebuild with a comp cam. 850-4500 rpm range. i have clifford headers and a offenhauser intake with holley 390/ edelbrock 500.
i just picked up a revised combustion chamber head, and want to get some work done to it. i also just installed 3:55's in my 8 1/4. but now im craving more. i dont want to pull the motor apart though. except to measure how far down the holes the pistons are.
can i achieve a decent compression by just milling the head? and should i also bump up the cam to something like the erson 270? oh and is there anyone in california or close that does slant six head work? i also planed on doing larger valves. and i guess the last thing is, im running a 904 pushbutton. so would i need to have a torque converter built with a higher stall? most of the time i just beat on my car around town. but i want to be able to drive it 40 miles to the track and back still. i know someone on here will know the right answer haha. thanks for any help. oh yeah. its in a 63 valiant wagon. so its not a heavy car if that matters.

thanks
-aaron-

_________________
it's not only good. it's good enough.

To maximize the work you have done, a distributor recurve is your next step. It makes a huge difference especially if you have increased compression. With a sure-grip rear end you should be able to lay down some nice rubber.......

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thanks ted. i forgot to mention that i had doug recurve my distributor.

_________________
it's not only good. it's good enough.

Head porting and a converter in the 2500-300 stall range will really make a huge difference. I would say Erson 270 would be OK, but Erson 280/270 would be better, if I understand your goals properly.

Have you measured piston-deck clearance at TDC? Or, has the block been milled or custom pistons installed? If stock block deck and stock replacement pistons, then you'll have around 0.180" deck ht and 0.100" milled off the head will get you around 9.1-9.5:1 comp. Head milling is a great low buck way to increase compression for better performance.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Quick question - I understand that head milling by itself will bring the compression ratio up or would a combination of block and head milling be better?

_________________
65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

Skim the head only to make it true and take the rest off the block. That way your head is less apt to twist, warp, etc.....

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

If your short block is all together, then just mill the head. I've never had a warped Slant 6 head, and I've milled as much as 0.110"/0.210" angle mill. There are arguments either way for milling head or block, so I don't think it's all that important which one or both.

Someone would have to do scientific testing to convince me either way, and that would be very difficult (according to my scientific perspective).

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi slantscamp, there is a company that does all the machine work on engines that you'll ever need - and they have done so since 1915 - called Egge Machine Works in Santa Fe Springs. They also regrind cams.
Olaf

_________________
Aspenized