Oldspowered
I used a two wire plug from napa it was with the trailer plugs/connectors. The only thing is the rubber insulator is smaller but the plug fits fine. Price was less than $3.00.
Good luck.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Yup, I trial fit mine last night. Fits great! I hacked together my coil/module mount last night. I'm either a hack or a redneck because I used a metal junction box for my mount. I cut a square hole in the top of the box to drop the Ford coil into and mounted the module to the side of the box. Ugly as sin but very sturdy and should dissipate heat nicely. Tonight is wiring, gotta grab a relay at lunch today.

I just picked up the GM mounting bracket and coil (with 3 pins and the connector) as shown in the 1st photo of Dan's write-up. As I understand it, that coil is OK to use along with the 4 pin HEI module shown in the 2nd photo. Or should I have got the bracket and coil shown in the 2nd picture?

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

It will work, just follow the correct wiring for the coil you are using.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

OK Thanks!

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

I've ordered the parts and i hope it will arrive soon in the Netherlands!

Can i place the coil everywhere i want (this because i need the length for a custom coil lead)? I've read that the HEI module shouldn't get to warm, but i think it looks nicer if i place the new coil (a E-core FD478) at the place of the original coil, instead of the inner fender!

HEI module will need some sort of heatsink.Search the pictures here and get an idea of the various types used.

Thanks! I've found a nice heat sink in an old computer.

I'm trying to hook everything up, but i don't understand the point of removing the ballast resistor because of the HEI, or has this removal nothing to do with the HEI swap?

HEI doesn't need the ballast.

You hook it up to full available voltage.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Alright, but how i understand this diagram is; the module and coil get their power from a direct source (wire 30 to wire 87 interrupted by a relay) and wire number 86 only triggers the relay.

And another question; i bought a secondhand distributor, but the vacuum advance is broke. In my old points distributor was a 7.5X vacuum advance, but the new electronic one has a 8.5R, can i use the old one or should i buy a 8.5R or?

8.5 vs 7.5 is enough to worry about. I'd use what you have.


My first answer was a bit incomplete (in wee hours of morning before I went to bed)

The HEI has the capacity to handle a coil that is hooked up directly to full power (no ballast) and various coil impendances.

It has the brains to vary the coil dwell for (less dwell; low rpm and/or high voltage. more dwell; high rpm and/or low voltage) various conditions so that the HEI or the coil won't burn out.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks for your answer. What should i do without this forum!

I don't quite understand what the ballast resistor has to do with the coil + HEI if they are hooked up from a direct power source and the ballast resistor's power is only used as a trigger for the relay, but i will just leave the ballast resistor out!
So i can connect it like this?


And about the vacuum advance; i use one from an older distributor (before '73) so the stroke will be much smaller as you can see:


What's is your advice?

If you leave the ballast resistor in the circuit, Then the relay trigger wont have full voltage.... it might still work but, then it might not or it might work till the resistor warms up then stop when voltage starts dropping. I don't know just a guess, best to leave it out.

good luck

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Thanks! Today i've hooked up everything and tried to start but nothing. I checked the spark and this was really good, also with a (overdone) huge gap.

Because i couldn't find the TDC mark on the crank pulley i pulled of the valve cover and tried to find it with a wire. I noted that both cylinder #1 and #4 their valves where closed at the TDC of cylinder #1; is this overlap normal or do i have the wrong TDC?

After (i think) i found the TDC i put the distributor back in with the rotor on #1 but it didn't start. I tried almost every tooth of the distributor but no start. Tomorrow i'll give it another try!

My last question; the two wires from the distributor to the HEI, how can i check that these are connected right? It sparks in both positions, and i've tried per tooth with both positions to start.

When you are at TDC, Both intake and exhaust valves on #1 should have some up/down movement on the rockers.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing