I had some suspension work down on the front end and I just found out they wrecked one of the left side wheel studs. I assume they probably didn't realize it was left handed and just hit it hard with an impact wrench. I took the wheel and brake drum to a shop and all they could do was cut the outside end of the stud off. They were unable to remove the entire stud. How unsafe is it to drive it with only 4 studs? I have to hunt down a left hand stud but I think I've seen the info on another post.

What is the best way to repair this problem? new hub with all new studs? From other posts it seems like a real project getting the studs out.

Thanks for the help.
Travis

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69 Valiant Sygnet. 273 V-8
You're only as good as your last u-turn.

You should be able to drive the broken stud right out with a drift punch and hefty hammer.

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ski

front studs are swage in to hold the drum on if you just push them out with a press you will screw up the holes in the hubs. You must grind off the swaged area before you press or drive out the studs. I found this out years ago when I took my front drums into a machine shop to have the drums replaced and they promptly screwed up my hubs. The stud holes were oversize new studs fell into the holes. I believe Chrysler sold these as drum and hub assy

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

The shop I took the drum too pounded out the stud about a 1/2 inch before givng up. Any thought if they might have fouled the hole? Can I just hammer in a new stud? I also had a heck of a time gettng the hub cap back on. Think it's dangerous driving with just four bolts?

I can sell you a drum and hub off of my '72 if you'd like. I can get the right side for you so you don't have to worry about L or R studs. Just pm or call.

,Cliff 623-734-4318

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

I think we have all been bitten by the dreaded left hand stud deal one way or another. When I got my 67, the first try to remove the wheels was a bit trying, as some one had snapped off two to three lefties per wheel, and replaced only the broken ones with right hand studs. Yeah, real convenient, additionally a few of the nuts were of a smaller size requiring further futzing…

I put up with that for a while, and just changed every thing to right hand and same size nut. No more notes to the front end alignment guy, the tire guy, and no more Sharpie “Lâ€￾ drawn on the left hand chrome nuts. Now she is in harmony with the rest of the world.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

You should have seen the guys at the shop that cut off the stud. The hub was attached to the wheel when i brought it in and even though I told them they were all left handed they still tried to take them off as if they were right handed. I saw them just stop and stare at the wheel as if it was from another planet. I had to go over and take the wrench out of their hand and reverse it for them! It was hilarious, so unnatural they couldn't get their head around it.

Does anyone know the parts numbers for bearings, races and seals for a replacement hub? I'm going to put in an order at Rockauto.

Thanks for the advice!

Travis

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69 Valiant Sygnet. 273 V-8
You're only as good as your last u-turn.

So...I'm about to go do some brake inspection on my 76, and I haven't had the wheels off of it since I bought it.

Did my 76 come with LH studs as well?

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Clean off end of stud see if it has a L stamped on it.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That's simple....thanks.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com