Thanks Fopar; i know but cylinder #4 also had some up/down movement, is this overlap normal for a slant six?

could be, never looked at which other valves had play at that point.

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Thanks for all the (very fast) help!

This morning after the car had a night to rest she almost start! Now i've got to hurry for my exam, but this afternoon i'll try some nearby tooth's.

To be continued!

Well, it idles! But when i hit the gas it runs very bad. I think this has to do with the vacuum advance? I put in the original point distributors advance which is a 7.5X and the original was a 8.5R and has almost twice the stroke as now(because of the different attachment points).

Another thing; i had it idling for about 5 minutes but the HEI module becomes very warm; to warm to put your hand on. After about 5 minutes the car turned off and didn't want to start anymore. Is it normal that the HEI module becomes this warm or is it now broken?

Many thanks,
Willard

Did you use heat sink compound (paste) under the HEI module to the heat sink ??

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A little, probably not enough and a to small heat shrink i guess.

But is it normal that the module become this hot?
Thanks

GM used these modules inside the distributers and they would get to the same temp as the blocks about 180 to 200 degrees F. So you may have damaged the one you are using.

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I've been reading on these forums for quite some time, and finally decided I should make an account. I've had my 225 /6 72 Duster for 10 years, and finally decided to do something with the engine.

I am not mechanically or electronically inclined by any means, so I've been somewhat confused. I want to put an electronic ignition and get rid of the points distributor, so I think I'm going to order #P3690789. I've been reading that there is too much advance at too low an RPM, and it's typically designed for high performance use? What would I need to do in order to change the advance? I've seen you guys talking about the spark advance and degrees, but I just don't know electronics to have a clue, but I want to learn.

Then there's the topic of these HEI units. Where do they fall into place if I pick up #P3690789? I see it comes with a control box, and from what I've read, the HEI replaces that...I think??

I guess I'm really just looking for your help to spell it all out for me. I'll be working on the car with my dad when we do this, but I'd actually like to know what we're doing before we jump in and do it.

Any and all help is appreciate. THANKS!

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Sounds like you'd have to change out the springs and recurve the distributor. Why is your heart set on the #P3690789 kit? You'd be better off just buying a standard stock late 70's mopar electronic dist. Get a NOS or original one from someone on here or ebay, no part store junk. Then just get yourself a decent coil as told in this thread and the HEI module. A few wire connections later and you wont have to worry about it for a long long time. I don't know how much the #P3690789 kit costs but the HEI stuff should run you around $150 or so unless you find some sweet deals. You'll be on the road faster and you wont have to worry about tearing your distributor apart so you can drive it on the street comfortably.

Is this the one you're referring to?

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/slsix198225e.html

Where else could I find a NOS one? I'd prefer not to have to rebuild one that's been pulled from a car if at all possible. Any chance you could point me in the right direction for both the distributor and the HEI system?

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Go to a junkyard and find a Chevette, people usually overlook these for the module because they are a real PITA to pull. Pop the cap and take out the 2 bolts that hold the module in. Take out the 3 bolts(12mm IIRC) that hold the coil in place. They are all under the intake and you cant see them, like I said PITA. Pull the coil and module as a unit so you don't get mixed up which side of the module the coil belongs on (keep the coil to distributer wire). You will need to cut the wires on the other side of the module, leave them as long as you can. These 2 wires go to the distributer. Next you find a slant six car 73 or newer (non lean burn). Pull the distributer and keep the coil to distributer wire. Take as much of the wires that go to the distributer base as you can. Then all you do is find a good spot to mount the coil and module, connect the blue wire from the old coil to the + of the new coil, adapt the center wire of the distributor cap to the from the 2 you saved from the junk yard, make sure your engine is on TDC and pull your points distributor and install the electronic distributor connect the wires from the module to the distributor. Start the car if it runs but poorly swap the wires from the module to the distributor.
This should cost you about $30 in junk yard parts and a few wire connectors.

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Ok this is the easiest way if you can't find a car in a junk yard with the setup or just don't feel like heading to a yard.

Go to NAPA and get your module. NAPA Echlin TP-45, ACDelco D-1906, or Standard-Bluestreak LX-301 are the parts numbers. They are all the same thing, but this way if they don't have the Echlin brand, maybe they'll have one of the other two.

Get the MSD Blaster 2 coil. This is what used to be recommended, now it's not because it's Chinese or something but it'll still work and is simpler to install for a beginner. I've been running it for a couple years and it's worked perfect for me.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8202

Since I don't see a decent ad on ebay, go to the parts wanted section on here and ask for a non remanufactured electronic distributor. If no one here has one, go to www.forabodiesonly.com and ask them for the same thing.

Once you get those 3 pieces, you're ready to go. Read this thread for instructions on hooking it up

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

I know buying a "kit" sounds a lot easier, but you'll be a lot happier with this setup. One thing I've learned over the few years I've been messing with these engines is that the quickest and cheapest way to do it is never the right way and you'll be replacing the same parts over and over if you go that route.

You're right, buying a kit does sound a lot easier, and is definitely what I had my eye on, but I do want to do things right. I'm just hoping I don't have a difficult time finding the non-remanufactured electronic distributor. I should probably hold out buying the other parts until I know I can find one.

Thanks for the awesome help, I really appreciate it!

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Also, my dad just went and picked up the Echlin TP 45, and it's showing as a Ford part?? I thought this was out of chevi's?

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Does it look like this ?

http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/( ... 0167171116

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