Went to the track tonight to try new fuel,VP 113 oxygenated.Third pass playing with jetting,running rich I got a 7.28 which showed promise, but oil light came on and pressure went to 0 on the return road.No noises so drove to trailer,maybe 500 ft and pushed it on trailer.Will cut filter apart first,then pull pump,then????Will keep ya posted on what I find.Guzzi Mark

Pull the distributor first and look at the cam gear.

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Joshua

Did you use one of Doc's hardened gears on the pump?

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Docs blueprinted pump and hardened gear.Gotta see whats in the filter first,If its full of shiney bearing material I will bee pulling motor,if filter is clean,then the pump.Allready researching electric oil pumps and trying to think how to plumb one.Will report tommorrow.Guzzi Mark

I wouldn't think and electric oil pump would have enough capacity..........

(Unless it was a 1 of multiple scavenge pumps on a dry sump system)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Here's what I hope it is............

Because it happened after WOT and high rpm.......


The pressure relief valve in the oil pump is stuck open.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Cut filter apart this morning,,,,SPOTLESS,not a speck.Will pull pump next.Guzzi Mark

Just pulled dist,looked at pump gear with mirror and flash light,gear looks like POOP.Yankee doodle next.Mark

Sorry to hear that Mark. That is a sickening feeling. We had 2 pump/cam gear failures a few years back. Hope we don't start Round two of oil pump gear problems.

Rick

I've had my share ..........What cam are you using? I finally started using stock pumps and cams and had them reground. I also put an oil pressure shutdown switch, which saved my last engine. All my failure were with mp cams and one comp. Never again. Sorry this happened to you. Just makes you sick. I also added an adj. cam button to front timing cover using a stock rocker adjuster. I lap the gears also and added an oiler to the pump gear internally. I don't know the answers; I don't think anyone does. If I can help in any way just pm me.
regards max

BTW: we're going dry sump on the Bonneville engine with the dist drive off the front of the cam. That'll cure it. I couldn't take it anymore. Impossible to go fast with the engineering Chrysler provided back then. but it was never meant to go fast anyway

Closer inspection of the filter element,couple small specks of aluminum.After sitting a couple hours letting oil soak into newspaper the filter does have quite a bit of very very fine metal.Magnet gets like hair on it,Think its very fine gear material.Probably will pull motor to get pump out and pull pan to inspect.pretty sure pump wont come out without pulling cause my motor is set back 1.3/4 and allmost against firewall.Mark

Comp cam,payed extra for nitradeing,lapped in pump to cam,cam button on front cover.Cant think of anything more I could have done to prevent this.Mark

Nitriding would work well on lobe surfaces due to the way it's done,
I don't think it'd work well for the gears machined into the cam since I'd guess this would be a high pressure area during mesh at high rpms.
I guess it would depend on how they prepped the blank, and if they didn't apply the coating/phosphating to the cam in between the gear teeth so the nitriding agent could work on the bare metal surfaces.

Kind of sounds like the new cam blanks don't have good gears.

I was going to have an experimental regrind nitrided, but I may have to re-think that option.

Post pics when you do the autopsy, I'd like to see what you find.

-D.idiot

Is it just the oil pump gear or

oil pump and cam gear?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Dont know Ed.why dont you drive less than 10 miles and help me figure it out.I need help and motivation.Guzzi Mark