Hello,

I recently swapped over my one barrel setup for a two barrel setup.
I'm running stock cast iron super six manifold, some older Clifford dual headers and a Carter carb I got off an AMC Rambler I'm parting out.
I also have an electronic ignition distributor.

Even before I did the swap (when I had the stock 1 BBL setup), I had hesitation off the line. When I stab the gas (W.O.T.), it bogs, then takes off.
That is the only time my it hesitates, besides that, throttle response is pretty good.

I just want to stab it and burn some rubber! Any tips on what I should look for would be appreciated. Thank you guys!

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1967 Barracuda Notch - Autocross 440 project
2000 Subaru Forester

What kind of condition is your accelerator pump in?

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

I don't think it's a fuel problem, the accelerator pump sprays nice and healthy when I look down the carb throat, as did the one on the one barrel setup.

I'm lost....

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1967 Barracuda Notch - Autocross 440 project
2000 Subaru Forester

Are there multiple holes on the linkage to hook your accelerator pump link to? You might try it in all three of them, and see if another choice makes it better or worse. There are other things that can cause this type of dead spot, but accelerator pump is the most common one, even when they look like they are good.

I had a carb that looked like it had a good healthy pump shot, but on closer examination, you could see the linkage was such that the throttle blade began to open just slightly ahead of the pump movement. It had a bad dead spot off the line.

Sam

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I'll definitely take a look at that tomorrow, thanks!

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1967 Barracuda Notch - Autocross 440 project
2000 Subaru Forester

Could a bad timing chain cause this?

I had a Dart with a 318 that was doing the same thing. Turned out the chain was so loose the timing was all over the place.
It was a long time ago, and I don't remember if the throttle response was bad at slower speeds. But if you floored it on a freeway entrance ramp, it was a pig for a few seconds and then whoosh! 90 mph before you knew it.

Yes, it could because it will retard the timing.

With a properly timed pump shot (fuel squirt first then throttle blade opening) you need a healthy hit of timing (initial and mechanical, but no more than 30-32 degrees) to get both wheels to spin with a Sure-Grip. It is a balance of both........This is where a distributor recurve will help using the "bigslant6fan" MOPAR spring kit. The Mr. Gasket/MOPAR light drag racing springs are too light and kick in too hard for daily driving. I tried it for about 2 weeks and could not keep the tires from spinning from any start.....My wife said, "Fix it, and quit acting like a kid".
When you floor it the vacuum advance is out of the picture since vacuum has dropped below pod engagement. The timing chain was installed with 4 degrees advance which also helps......

My accelerator pump linkage has zero slop and provides a well timed squirt. The 3600 pound Dart breaks free right away.

One of the current upgrades I am doing is installing a double roller chain to reduce potential chain stretch.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG