My 61 Valiant 170 /6 had a new voltage regulator put on ~100miles ago and now the car is not charging again or at least when I pull the negative battery cable the car quits. I could do this before and the car would keep running (thats why I replaced the voltage regulator). I just had the generator rebuilt and a new battery installed but still will not charge. My assumption is the regulator is shot again. Before I install another regulator does anyone know why I could be blowing regulators or is my logic garbage and have no idea what I am doing?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Blake

No, When you pull a batt cable and the car dies is the indication that the alternator is dead! Stop throwing $$ at it and get the alt. looked at.

If you have a single field regulator, these are the steps I have taken to diagnose my charging issues. If you have a dual field, I will add that extra few steps at the bottom.

Check the main output wire on the alternator and see what it reads. At idle in neutral you should have at least 13v on that wire. If you do, check your battery voltage and see if it is the same as the alternator battery wire. Check the battery connections if they differ, and if th battery connections are clean, trace the battery wire from the alternator to the ammeter and make sure that you have the same voltage reading on the two ammeter terminals as you did on the alternator battery terminal.

If you do, then its time to look elsewhere.

If you don't, place an ohmmeter on the wire that runs from the ammeter to the alternator; there shouldn't be any reading except zero (0.00) if your wire, firewall connector, and alternator connection are good. Make sure the connections to the ammeter and firewall are snug and clean; also take an ohmmeter to the ammeter. Let us know what you get there. From there you trace the other wire from the ammeter through the firewall connector and to the starter relay, where the whole mess gets hooked up. Check to make sure all of those wire connections are clean and tight. Move from there to the battery and check for resistance on that wire.

Assuming that end is good here is some more stuff to look at.

Check the field wire for voltage from the regulator, making sure it is clean and has good connections on both ends. If you don't have voltage at the field wire going to the alternator, check for voltage going into the regulator. If you have approximately battery voltage in those places then its likely your regulator is good, if you have voltage (~12 volts) going in, but none coming out, your regulator should be replaced.

After that, its time to Yank the alternator and have it tested at a reputable rebuild shop. They can advise you on the status of your alternator and let you know what options you have.

If you have a dual field regulator and proper alternator, there are a few more places to look at.

Check to make sure the blue wire on the regulator is hooked to a wire that puts out 12v with the ignition on, and the upper (+) field terminal on the alternator. The blue power wire ( if you have converted to a dual from a single, this will be the same wire you would test for power going into the regulator) with the ignition on should have battery voltage and battery voltage at the blue wire field terminal connector on the alternator. If not, trace the wire and connections to figure out where the problem is.

If that checks out, verify the connections and wire condition with an ohmmeter on the green field wire that runs back to the regulator. If there is little or no resistance on that wire ( checked with probe at field terminal, and at regulator connector) then I would suspect the alternator.

Good luck!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Adding to THOR's recipe, make sure the chassis of your voltage regulator has a good ground. In my opinion, those weird lag bolts, that hold some of the electrical items to fenders & firewall don’t make for very good grounding connections after several decades of corrosion build-up.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Two things to add. When using the ohm meter to check for resistance/continuity, make sure the battery is disconnected.
If your voltage regulator is BWD brand, late style, it is probably bad. In the past year I have found almost one dozen defective units. I called Standard Motor Parts, about this, and they acknowlege the problem, but still don't pull the parts from the shelf.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks for all the advice. I will get to diagnosing the wiring this week and let you know how it goes. This system is running a generator not an alternator? if that makes a difference and the generator was rebuilt and tested last week. Put a new battery in on the weekend and the new regulator should be here today. Blake

OK got the new regulator, have a rebuilt generator and a new battery and now the car is charging again but still have no reading at the gauge. Stripped all the tape off of the wiring harness from the fire wall to everything inside the car. Found one bad connection in the steering column harness and a completely bare wire going to the rear lights. I will continue tonight and try and trace down the volt / ammeter gauge wiring. Blake

To be sure the regulator is grounded, I ran a jumper wire from the alternator to the regulator....just in case the sheet metal on the fender is not....

_________________
Aggressive Ted

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