I have a Pertronix I distributor here that this 67 Valiant came with but I couldn't get it to run right. So I put in a points distributor and it runs better but it still doesn't run right. Now I'm going back to the Pertronix to see if I can get better performance out of that. My problem is that I'm looking at the schematic to connect it with a ballast resistor and I'm confused about the connection to the ballast resistor. The car came with the splice as shown in the picture. The red wire from the ballast resistor goes to the red wire from the distributor. The bluish wire thats spliced with the red on the ballast here is going to the + on the coil. Then the black wire from the distributor is going to the - on the coil. Is this correct?

Check for voltage drop between resistor and coil, and resistor distributor. I don’t like the looks of that splice. If there is a voltage drop, run new wires. Remember the resistor reduces the voltage from 12 point something, to as low a 6 volts, depending on the rating of your resistor. Take a voltage reading off of the left end of the resistor, and than from the coil to ground at the other end of the wire, and see if there is a difference between the two readings. If they are the same or real close by a few 100ths your good to go. If the is a volt or two difference you will need to run new wire of correct color & gage.

More suspect would be your valve lash adjustment. Off speck lash adjustment is the main reason for a poorly running engine.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

You need full 12v for the pertronix power.


It may or may not run with the reduced voltage after a ballast resistor

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I've already done the valve lash a couple times and it's good to go.

I'll check the voltage tomorrow and see what I'm getting.

I have a 1.5ohm coil...I thought you need the ballast resistor with the Pertronix I ignition?

You need the ballast for the coil, full power to the pertronix.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Ok this thing is really getting on my nerves. I have a points, pertronix and chrysler electronic distributor.

With the points distributor it runs perfectly fine for a minute or two (with the choke off) and then starts to stumble more and more until it dies after 5 minutes or so.

With the pertronix distributor it runs really rough almost like it has a miss but it doesn't. It runs slightly better at about 5* ATDC than it does anywhere else. If I try and get it to run at 5* BTDC it stumbles and then dies.

With the chrysler electronic distributor I have it all hooked up to an HEI module with no ballast the same way my Duster is hooked up. Can't even get it to start. Just turns over and over without even acting like it's going to start.

I know I'm not a tooth off or 180* out because the points dist works fine and I'm putting all 3 of the distributors in the same way and I've made the adjustment on the bottom side of the distributor if they don't set it and adjust between 10* BTDC and TDC.

The only thing I can think to do is I have this other parts car I have here that has a working Chrysler electronic ignition and see what happens with that.

I use my stock 74 distributor, an old orange MOPAR ECU and a Pertronix 3 ohm coil. It runs super all the time with out the ballast resistor.

Your first picture is not correct. Your getting reduced voltage to the Pertronix unit. As the resistor warms up it reduces the voltage to your Pertronix unit even more.....and yes it will die....or run poorly.

The Pertronx unit needs a full 12 volts from the ignition.....no resistor. Just jumper the wires together and toss the resistor. The GM HEI is the same, it needs a full 12 volts. THe MOPAR ECU is the same....it needs a full 12 volts. Which ever device you end up using, Pertronix, HEI or MOPAR ECU, they all require a full 12 volt ignition source. SL6 Dan even goes a step further and puts a relay in so you can go directly to the battery for max amperage to the HEI........

Get a 3 ohm Pertonix HEI type coil coil if you want to run the MOPAR ECU or Pertronic Ignitor. I run the 60,000 volt Pertronix HV coil.

Pertronix coil information

Reference: conversation with Marvin @ Pertronix on 1/21/2010 @ 1 800 827 3758 Ext 1030

Milliamp output ratings are based on input amperage. All MSD rating are done with the MSD ignition box so they are not based on the coil alone. Pertronix coil output values vary between the ohm ratings (.5, 1.5 & 3 ohms) and how much input they receive from the control box. When using the Pertronix Second Strike box or the Ignitor III system or MSD, Crane, GM HEI, etc. the output to the coil is around 8 amps. The MOPAR ECU (stock, orange or chrome box) the output is approximately 4 amps.

Stock points and resistor with a 40601 3 ohm oil filled coil will produce about 25 milliamp out put to the spark plugs. Using the Ignitor 1 System with out the resistor output goes up to 34 milliamps. Using the Ignitor II system is similar output as the MOPAR Orange box. Based on 4 amps input the ratings area as follows:
1. Using # 60130 3 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 50 milliamps.
2. Using # 60115 1.5 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 75 milliamps.
3. Using # 60104 .5 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 90 milliamps.
The problem when using a MOPAR box is that we are limited to using the 3 ohm coils for safety reasons when not running the resistor. That allows a full 12 volts at all times at the coil. If we want to use the .5 or 1.5 ohm coil we need to add the resistor back into the circuit for reduced voltage which in turn will reduce the milliamp output rating.

The HV E-core coils produce more voltage and amperage and recharge much faster compared to conventional round coils.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Connected the Pertronix up with a full 12v and it didn't make a difference. I'm going to try this other electronic distributor tomorrow or Sunday and see if that does it. I just think it's weird that 3 distributors have 3 different problems and I know I have them all hooked up right. I've seen stranger things so I'll post an update tomorrow or Sunday with what happens.

Found out my HEI module is garbage. Couldn't get the Valiant running with the known working distributor. So I tried the HEI module in my Duster and couldn't start it. Connected it back to my old module and it started right up. The annoying thing is that I bought the module online so I'm going to have to contact this company and see about getting another one.

Ok so I got another HEI module, got everything connected with the known working Chrysler electronic dist and it fired right up. Put the timing at 10* BTDC and fixed the idle speed. Ran great for the 5-10 minutes I had it going. Now all it needs is a few runs out on the road to see what happens. But so far so good. With the points dist it wouldn't have made it to 5 minutes without running super rough.