Lives again. I drove it this morning for the first time since 10/12/03. Felt great and brought tears... Still needs some tuning, a hood, and more bodywork.

More to come...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Good one Lou! A good example of attachment overruling dollar values.

As Neil Young said "Long may you run"

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Dollars are only good for so much.

Coming out of Lowe's the other day driving my 68, two employees were standing by the car going bananas for it. One guy asked me how much I would sell it for.

I just said, "It's not for sale."

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

To bad you don't live closer I have a 64 hood, but the shipping would kill the deal

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married with more children than cars

OK, in a wierd turn of fate, my 68 Dart has cracked another flex plate. Obviously the engine/trans alignment is bad and the trans will have to come out AGAIN.

So, we will not be taking it to the Nats.

The 64 on the other hand, is running strong - got the fiberglass hood mounted last night and did a little tuning. Still wrinkled in the rear, but serviceable and legal. Cameron Tilley and I will take this car to the Nats assuming no issues today. It'll be great to drive it on a trip again, and we'll see how a few passes down the strip go...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Good luck Lou! Glad to hear the old warrior is back in action.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Car ran a best of 14.59@95mph at Columbus in 98 deg heat and high humidity. Burped a little water into #6 cylinder on the last pass and we quit racing for the weekend.

Just replaced that gasket now with a nice FelPro. Won't be using cheapies from now on (ROL?). Don't even remember the brand.

Hope to get it out to a track soon for more tuning and hopefully some 13 sec passes.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I just weighed my 64 at the dump. 2940lbs with me and a laptop in it (180) and 5 gals gas. Rear two tires read 1300lbs. So, with a full tank it would be about 3010 with me in it, 1370 over the rear. All weights are +/-20lbs according to the scale guy. Splits are 44/56 as weighed, or 46/54 with a full tank.

This is with the fiberglass hood and new fiberglass leaf springs (flex-a-form), old 15x7 rims and 225/50 tires up front and 16x8 w/245/45 tires in the rear, and a 22lb gel cell batt in the trunk. I also have a mini alum radiator and 12" fan recently.

Pretty much what I expected (within 30 lbs). Not bad considering I had never weighed it. My buddy's bone stock 63 2dr hdtp Dart weighed 3060 with full tank and me in it, with 1260 over the rear, so that was my reference.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thats pretty good Lou!

My Valaint is 3015 with me (155lbs)and 1/2 tank of gas. (truck scale)

The Valaint has a lighter trans (-15lbs less than stock 3 speed) and the lighter 7.25 rear.

Valiants are prolly a little lighter anyway.

Other light weight items I use are: lighter Cressida seats (30lbs)
Aluminum Super 6 manifold (10lbs)
Mini starter (?)
69 head (15lbs)
mini spare (15 lbs)

I figure the alloy rims balance out the added weight from disc brakes.

Now if you can make 300hp you will have the power to weight ratio of a hemi Cuda. !0lbs:1hp

I always figure 10lbs= 1 hp when reducing weight. I dropped 300lbs off our mudbogger last year which is the same as adding 30 hp.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Here's the build sheet on my '64 engine, circa 2002 when the Popular Hot Rodding article came out. I will post more recent mods soon. This was good for 14.60s and 20-22 MPG at 75 MPH with 3.23 gears, 14.30s with 3.91 gears.

Hope this is helpful!

Lou


Block: Originally put together in 1993, cammed up in 1996
-Machine work by Action Cylinder Head Service, Madison, WI
-1972 225 block, 0.060" over, hot tanked and cleaned well
-MP 9.0:1 cast pistons (TRW made) with moly rings
rebuilt (resized and new MP HiStr bolts) 225 rods
-0.010"/0.010" 225 big-hub crank (crank/rods from same engine)
-Set clearances to 0.0017-0.0021" on rod/main brngs (I checked)
-Chamfered crank oil holes
-Rotating assembly balanced (pistons/rods/balancer/flexplate/crank)
-Melling HV oil pump, added hi pressure spring after 5k miles,
removed later after rear main leak
-Drop sump oil pan and pickup 1.5-2" for 2 extra qts
-New cam bearings and freeze plugs
-0.510" custom ground cam, 250 @ 0.050",
-Currently have all-metal silent timing chain - no problems, but
may converted to roller later
-No oil passage blending, although I would do some now as per
Doug's advice.

Head: 1964 head
-Chevy 1.72"/1.50" valves, 11/32" stem
-All new bronze guides and posilock seals
-Hardened EXH seats
-Angle milled 0.080" on intake side, 0.180" on plug side
-Blending on ports where new valve seats were cut, not heavily
ported, can use more work here
-Some kind of Chevy valve springs (1.5" diam, I think) and CrMo
retainers good up to 0.600" cam according to machine shop
-Stock valve gear
-Custom fit shortened (about 0.200") CrMo pushrods, 3/8", kit from
Mancini Racing (need these for the milled head and 0.1" longer
valves)

Induction/Exh/misc:
-Clifford 4bbl intake (w/Cliff plate for Edel 600, or custom plate
for TBI)
-Holley Pro-Jection 670 CFM 2bbl TBI, old analog system (Edelbrock
600 w/elec choke and strip kit tuning works well too, idle a bit
worse)
-Clifford Street Rod headers
-2" duals back to two 2" turbos dumping before rear axle
-3-row radiator out of '64 Val wagon w/AC
-Electric fan (Summit Racing 16")
-Stock alt and water pump
-Ltwt, high-torque starter
-Batt in trunk w/cutoff switch near license plate
-Ram air box hooking to radiator support w/4" hose
-Jacobs Energy Team (ProStreet) ignition, MSD 6A works great too)
-NAPA rebuilt elec ign distributor, recurved for 16-18 deg initial
advance, 27-30 deg total, 14 deg more from vac advance at cruise
-Aftermarket (Summit) oil and temp gauges on dash

Here's what I know about my pushbutton 904 transmission (built by mopar nut trans builder in Madison, WI):

-1965 PB auto with 1964 shift cables - no trouble, just bolted on.
-1971 front pump/clutches/internals from smallblock A904 so can use later
style TC (bigger input shaft) and all is HD, 4 clutches in front.
-1965 valve body bored and modified for hard shifts
-MP street/strip rebuild kit with HD clutches
-TCI Aluminum finned deep pan w/pickup.
-9.5" Continental Converter, 3600-3800 RPM stall, alloy pump drive
hub (needed - I've cracked two now from cheap GER converters)

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

where did you get a fiberglass hood for that car?

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1963 Dodge Dart -225 Slant 6, 904, 2.76's, 18.84 @ 73
1970 Nova 12.53@108
1970 Bug 15.38@87

Meril Bruner in TN knows a guy who made a mold and printed up some hoods for a group buy I organized a couple of years ago. I believe US Body in FL makes em.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Been awhile since last update.

14.57 @ 95 MPH at Hagerstown 2009, winning the final round - priceless.

Last week I fabbed a front airdam (not pretty, but functional), and I believe it has helped hwy mileage and possibly road feel at high speeds. 25 MPG @ 75 MPH on my trip up to S. Hadley, MA from Blacksburg, VA today... Best with this motor combo (cam too far advanced, with my fiddlings) has been 22-23 MPG.

Total cost was about $15 - 1.5" angle aluminum, bolts, screws, and cut the top off a black plastic Rubbermaid wastebasket.

Also lowered the front end an inch more. Front end is so light I had to cut up the tbar adjuster block to get it lowered with the 0.920"bars.

Also also, installed some Dynamat where the rear seat would be and that dropped noise a little. Will install more of that soon...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Where is your cam degeed in to be too far advanced?


I am planning on dialing up the advance on ruster's V2.0 motor.


Just comparing notes.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg,

I originally had that cam around 99, which was great. Tried it at 101-102 and it made crazy power up top but was a bit doggy down low around town. Currently, it is at 96, which is great down low, but it runs out around 5500-5800. Next time I have it apart, I'll put it back to 99-100.

This is my tried and true $25 regrind cam from American Cams in LA circa 1996 - 0.510" lift, 250 @ 0.050", 106 LSA. I want to try a split pattern with more intake duration, but this one has worked well for 40k+ miles. I'm not sure if the optimimum centerline will have to change with a split pattern cam, but I'll try changes there too eventually.

Most racers I've talked to say 99-102 is about right for a performance cam. Ron Hamby said he picked up about 0.3-0.4 sec just by advancing from 106 to 102 (12 sec car!).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988