Shaker, I would be thrilled if my car ran like yours. Do you still have the meth injection? I have turned mine off until I get basic tuning done.

Sam

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I thought it might be useful to keep updating this thread with progress, as much has been made. I will post each change as it is made, and give some feed back as to it's success.

1. Moved the fuel line so it was not pressed hard against the thermostat housing. This cooled the fuel rail down by about 40 degrees.

2. Applied a good mechanical pressure gauge to the fuel line and discovered that the regulator had been backed out to where it was doing nothing. Whatever the fuel pump supplied, that was what the fuel rail saw. It started at 80 PSI, and would fall to about 60 or so, (estimated), as the engine warmed up. All the while my digital gauge was reading 43 at first and then falling to 30 PSI. This maladjustment , or should I say lack of adjustment was an attempt to satisfy a faulty digital fuel pressure gauge. This discovery was a major breakthrough. Once adjusted correctly, pressure now seems to be stable through all temperature ranges, and requires only good tuning to improve things.

3. Tidied up wiring on the passenger's fender where the Mega Squirt relay box sits. This involved turning the box around and then mounting the ECU in the cabin so it does not simply hang down on the passenger's feet.

4. Installed an inner vent on the passengers side inner fender to help remove heat from the engine bay. Next is to cut the hole in the outer fender for the other BMW M-3 vent whose mate has been in place and working for two years on the driver's side.

5. Planned-for future projects:
a. Better cold idle control, which will consist of bigger valve. It works now, but just does not allow quite enough air. I am using a purge valve from an old minivan.
b. Heat shields for turbo and fuel rail.
c. Get boost control worked out. Turbo currently provides no boost, even though it spools up nicely.
d. Air dam to improve aerodynamics of lower front end, and cooling of engine bay.
e. Maybe new wheels if I can find reasonably priced 15's with the proper 4.25" back space. My old cop car wheels were the best. I just could not get into the look.
f. There are some wiring issues that need to be dealt with, all in the dash. They will come in due time.

I will keep posting the progress. Thanks again to all who have assisted in the diagnosis. This car is once again fun.

Sam

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Love reading these updates. And congrats on the progress!

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DynoDave
1970 Plymouth Duster
1972 Dodge Charger Rallye
1977 Chrysler Cordoba
WPC # 12304

Yes, but I have up'd to the 10 gal per hour jet. It turns on with 4psi of boost.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Installed second purge valve in parallel to original one. Won't know the result until I buy about four more feet of 3/8" vacuum line. It looks good. I'm thinking maybe I can install some kind of mechanical remotely controlled valve to vary bleed from inside cabin if needed.

Sam

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Thanks for the update, Sam. I installed a functional but not so pretty airdam on the '64 Dart and it appears (imagine?) to have helped mileage and road feel at high speed. 25 MPG @ 75 MPH...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, can you post a photo of the airdam? I would love to see it. If it works, maybe we can fab a "pretty" one for it.

Impressive mileage! Almost up there with my Miata. Isn't that amazing. Best mileage I ever got out of the '69 was 29mpg when it was a 2bbl, 4 spd OD. It hovered around 24-25 in local daiily driving all the time. But, it might have turned an 18 second quarter on a good day. Nothing like your '64. And, the Miata is pretty slow also.

Sam

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I have gotten 25 MPG before, but only "one off" tanks and maybe not reliable. With my previous engine combo, I averaged around 23-24 MPG, mostly hwy. Can't take pic this week (travelling w/o camera), but maybe next. Might make it prettier before I even take a pic.

HyperValiant has agreed to help me make a really nice airdam, but we haven't gotten together on that yet. He is a great custom bodyman. As soon as I'm in front of the '68 Dart again, I will add an airdam to that. Dakota and Project V too...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Put in passenger side BMW fender vent last night, and finished wiring in the second purge valve to increase the fast idle speed. It is good when really dead cold, but gets a little too fast when the engine is around 120-130 ECT. It sits at around 1200 RPM and feels like it could stand to come down a bit at that point.

I think I will go ahead and wire one of the purge valves to a toggle switch, and also to the AC switch. This way I can turn it off when I want, and have it go on with the AC.



Sam

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I took the bumper off to take it to my welder-guy to cut a hole in the middle for improved inter cooler airflow and discovered one of the silicone hoses had come loose. No wonder there was no boost. This is a yahoo kind of discovery! I will get to this in the morning, and get it hooked back up. I expect it to have boost galore when I get the bumper back on and the car back on the road. It should not take long to get this taken care of. I expect I will have to dial the boost back some way with a boost control as it was running away with boost right before I took it to John. It was going up to 15psi at one point.

The primary hold up will be my welder. His mother died a week ago, and he is just recovering.

One thing I do not understand is why there was boost for awhile when Lou and I went out tuning. The guy who never tuned it up,(John Behe) said it had no boost when he test drove it. And then when Sandy and Lou and I started it back up, it did have boost. Strange. I'm not looking a gift horse in the mouth here.

Sam

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Glad to hear about the hose. This is a common issue with a new turbo setup, I believe. Can't see how it would be intermittent.

Sam, can you post the part number or application for that idle/purge valve? Sorry if I missed it elsewhere.

I hope you will come to the Hagerstown race (rain date) in 3 weeks! July 31 and Aug. 1. I will be there.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou, I will get that part number for you. However, the Nissan part I used has one design feature which is not ideal. You apply power to turn it off. Which is fine, in that I controlled it with a relay. However, since it is off most of the time, the power is on it most of the time, and it gets warm. The Mopar part out of the old Minivans is designed to be open when power is applied, which means the coil inside is OFF most of the time. I like this better. Its a small detail, but one of those things that the designer at Nissan thought through a little more carefully than the designers at Chrysler. In its original application it is likely open most of the time the car is operating. So the Chrysler part uses more energy in that circuit than the Nissan one. For our application is nice to simply have the power go off once the need for air is gone when the car heats up.

If there is a junk yard near you, you can grab one off an old Minivan easily. They are inside a rounded case that looks kind of like a small thermos bottle. You can take the valve out of that to reduce it's size. I don't know what the function of the casing is.

As to the intermittent nature of the leak, I think at first it was probably not entirely disconnected as it was when I found it. And maybe the expansion and contraction of the aluminum tube did something. Also, a possibility is that John stuck it back on and did not tighten it. That might explain why the boost was only 8 lbs when we were testing it instead of the 15 I used to get. I will work out the control when this is all back together.

I decided to put the bigger, blow-through style inter cooler in while I had it all apart. If I was cutting a hole in the bumper, it should be the size for the larger one, (the hole is done now) and this was the time to put the larger one in. So, I never ever fired it up after that decision was made.

I know the scientist in you hates that. But, if I am going to get it to Haggarstown, which I intend to do, I need to move forward and get this back together. I will have to order some new tubing perhaps, and at the very least have new bungs welded in the intake tube for the temp sensor and maybe the meth injection.

I kind of suspect I will not need meth injection with the new intercooler, and the opening in the bumper. . It did not seem to do much when I had it hooked up. But then again, maybe the entire set up was too dysfunctional with heat for it to work. I have high hopes for this new arrangement. I will stay in touch on that.

Sam

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Sounds great. Keep on steamin'!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Looks like you are making good progress again Sam!


Glad to see you back on the board again.


Are you coming up to carlisle this weekend? (hint hint) with or without your car?

Maybe hagerstown.


Best of luck!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks Greg, I'll be in Haggarstown, but not Carlisle

Sam

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