Well heres the quick run down,

1976 225
oregon re grind 280in 270ex 110LSA installed 108.5
re ringed
re bearinged
re gasketed
new timing set
new plugs
new MO-3000 (tan dizzy cap w/ brass inserts)
new long brass tipped rotor
new wires
edelbrock 650 (1405 series) carb

1st time i went to crank the car, kept cranking and cranking and cranking, then it started back fireing through the intake, did it twice, caught on fire both times, nothing major, just kinda scared me a bit currently been awake for 22hours, brains fried got to be to work in 2 hours........ HELP, i thought timing might be out 180 so i flipped the wires.....nothing, and i went ahead and reset them back where they were, and have been moving them 1 spot to the left to see if that is it..........there is no f'in way timing is off........ i checked it 5 times before bolting the motor back together, check the valve lash 3 times.........

please help,
-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

well got the spark plug wire figured out, car started like a champ, incredible oil pressure, for the 2 mins it lived............... oil pressure stayed high, but it threw #3 rod throught the side of the block before i could even shut her off...........its not fair.......so much time, so many parts squirreled away, it wasn't supposed to end like this...........

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Mike
That SUXS can you get a new block and transfer the parts over?
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Wow, that's a major bummer. You have the main bearings in the right places so they and the rods got oiled?

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Joshua

yep, everything thing was where it was supposed to be, everything torqued to spec, every thing was atleast double checked, if not triple checked, the only thing i can think of is the connecting rod bolt let loose.it never got over 2500rpm, i was going to start at 2500, and bring it down 500rpms every 5mins, and about 2mins in BOOM, i just started to cry, it was the most upsetting thing that has happened since she chucked the #5 rod 2years ago..........2years since she ran last...........

yes everything can transfer, only prob is my primary car ('00 Neon) spun a rod bearing last wednesday, so now i have to figure out:

which would be cheaper to do,

try and track down another slant short block, get another gasket kit, and swap everything over

or get a set of heads, gasket kit, rings and bearings for my big block, also need a tranny,


wanna go with the slant, now a few questions,

can the head studs be reused ??

everything thing i have read on main and rod studs/bolts says you HAVE to line hone in order to use them, why ???

main and rod studs and bolts will definitly be in my future but not if i HAVE to get it line honed, it just seems dumb to me


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I'm not trying to be hard on you, but something major was wrong if the engine spit out a rod. A main bearing in the wrong place not allowing oil flow to the main and rod bearing was my first guess. Second guess would be too small a rod bearing, but if the bearing seized and spun you'll never know for sure. Properly torqued rod bolts simply don't fail at 2500 RPM. In fact the rod bolts usually survive a spun bearing. It's the rod itself that fails from the heat. The 2 minute time frame leads me to believe no oil or next to no oil was flowing through that rod bearing. I'd like to see the post mortum, but I'm a little far from you.

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Joshua

I learned the rod bolt lesson before I built my motor. I pulled them all per a friends advice and found many of them to be bent or twisted. When you get new rod bolts pressed in it's smart to have the rods resized as per ARP instrutions. Sucks dude, sorry for the heart ache.

,Cliff

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

josh i will take some pics tomorrow, and post them up

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Mike
Its a shame your so far away. You might check with Charrlie S and see if he has a running core.
I have one but have no idea how you would get it.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

AMAZING MIRACLE !!!! i just got off the phone with a guy who posted an ad in craigslist, he is doing a big block swap in a '75 duster, which had a running slant wanted $100 obo, i asked whats the lowest he would take, he said if you come and get the motor and tranny and everything else its all FREEEEEEEE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

God does work in mysterious ways,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

There you go. I wouldn't be able to help. No running slants left in stock.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

give him a case of beer...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

hey i've been to your house, seen your amazingly well stuffed garage, we CAN make a running motor with all your spare parts lol, gonna eventually break down the toasted motor and see if anything is salvageable,

gonna swap the cam in, know do i need new cam bearings since the motor did run, all be it only 5 mins or can i just install new cam bearings and rock it ??

or since its kinda used can i just keep the bearings that are already in the motor and just put my cam in ?? along with the lifters ??

now can i use ARP rod bolts without having to line hone, or resize them ??

same for main studs ??

what about the head studs, can i reuse them ??

what about the head gasket ?? again the motor only ran for about 5 mins,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

yea no doubt, may also score some parts for my 400BB, and if anything i get i can't use or have no need for I will pass the free savings on to anyone who needs'em, its a great karma/chi booster lol,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Were the original rods resized after you put in the ARP bolts? If so I'd run those 5 rods and have new ARP bolts put in a replacement rod and have it resized. If the rods were not resized after the ARP bolts were installed use the rods from the replacement motor and skip the ARP bolts or have them all resized.

I would put new cam bearings in the replacement block unless the ones in there look like new. I have not been impressed with original Chrysler cam bearings. They seem to fatigue and fall apart.

Why do you have main studs? There are very fast slants that do not use main studs. If you run main studs have the block line honed. The increased clamping force from the main studs can distort the bearing housing and if it's out of round too much you'll lose oil clearance.

Head studs can go right in the replacement block. Nothing special has to be done.

Use a new head gasket unless the old one is solid copper. Fel Pro head gaskets are not that expensive.

I'm really curious to see pictures of all the bearings in the broken engine.

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Joshua