Hi all need to know how to ID a holley carb heres where I am at with talking to this guy

"No picture, and I'm not sure that my camera would get a good shot of it either, but here's the numbers on it. The numbers are located either side of the secondairies, one number is 6R4791B and is cast into the main body of the carb, the other number 1396 is stamped into the main body of the carb. Carb is a double pumper, and has mechanical secondaries. Has been through IMCA tech many times and never had any problmes."

last i checked the 4150 style DP holley 390cfm has a pn of 0-80507-1, needing expert help !!!

-Mike

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

The List number would be on the air horn on the choke tower. Since it was a race car carb, that may have been machined off, or wasn't there when he got it.

I took a look at that carb. It looks pretty rough. Could be OK. Could take some dollars to fix though.

A double pumper 390 model 4150 wouldn't be an ideal choice for a street driven car. It could be useful for a track build.
Though a 390 Double pumper is expensive, a useless chunk is more expensive still. Heck, I've purchased used ones that haven't been molested for less than he wants for that one. Bid on it accordingly. I wouldn't spend too much for that particular one unless that's exactly what you need for a specific build. Sounds like lots of unknowns with it.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

yea well someone else beat me out on another auction for a decent 8007 390cfm carb

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

The Edelbrock should be a lot less trouble once it's set up.
As long as you don't have to deal with temperature or barometric swings on a regular basis, the Holley can work fairly well. The folks I know that run double pumpers put variable jet metering block setups in to simplify tuning for variations across a day at the track. These can make excellent track carburetors for wild builds. These are builds with big cams, lot's of compression, and racing exhaust systems on very light cars.
I highly recommend getting your compression up in the 9:1 range to use a 4 bbl if you haven't already done so. Anything at or below 8:1 isn't going to be very satisfying. My original '74 8:1 motor with a 390 Holley ran slower than mid to late 60's 1 bbl cars.
I'd take a reman Edelbrock in a heart beat. They are simple enough that most of the reman places can't even screw them up. You can get "Reconditioned by Edelbrock" unit for decent money, and it will be right.
They are relatively inexpensive from Summit. Take a look at the 500 cfm Edelbrock. It's hard to beat with the factory jetting and metering rods. Bump the metering rod springs up to the stiffest ones available, reduce the pump shot, and your golden. It will be more forgiving of lower compression as well.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Im with CJ. I run the 500cfm Eddys on ALL my cars.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered