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 Post subject: K1 Wiseco Part Numbers
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 3:51 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Help............I am building a twin turbo and need a combination to get to 8.5 :1 with a head that has been shaved .100. If I am correct in reading all the threads the rods are the same and doc mentioned a piston that brought the compression down. I'm sure it was a special piston, or they be making a dished now.
Anyone ever have to do this? I would change heads but it flows right at 216cfm. All help would be appreciated and maybe some out of the box ideas?
THANKS TO ALL.
DAVID aka MaXracer

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:10 pm 
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Get a set of the forged "long rod" 3.504 (89mm) Wiseco pistons, ( 1.6 Comp Heigth) install them onto 225 connecting rods, (6.7 c to c) mill the block deck .050, use a 40 cc chamber size head and a shim type head gasket (.020 thick) and you get 8.52 C/R.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:53 pm 
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Thanks Doc..........I've been worrying how to do this. I understand the K1 rods are 7in. , so a good set of 225 reconditioned rods with arp bolts should do it. I need to cc the head again. What type of head gasket do you recommend. One of the Aussies?
Best regards to you and yours.
david taylor
MaX

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1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 5:09 pm 
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The head gasket I referenced is the factory type, embossed steel gasket, just because it is the thinnest.
Any gasket can be used as long as you adjsut the block deck to allow for the thicker ones.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 5:50 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Yep..................I'll cut 30 and add in the head gasket.......should put it about 40 down in the cylinder. This going to work out with minimum boost.
Think we have figured how to run the dizzy off the front of the engine and dry sump it for the salt. Will be using a thick aluminum plate as a forward mount. No radiator, lots of water. class FRMR ( F class) rear modified roadster. In the process of finding an older dragster to modify. Needs to be a 94" minimum wheel base.
Also building three engines, two normally aspirated and one turbo.
we are getting closer, we are using a dyno but we are not racing dyno's. Where we live is a desert and have a place to test. A place called Big Lake where a natural occurrence happened years ago and drained it. 8)
thanks again
max

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1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012
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 Post subject: Turbo /6 info
PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:41 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Max,

That sounds like a really interesting project!

Is there any place I could read about it, or could you describe it on here for us?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks much!

Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 5:56 am 
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Max,

Sounds like a killer head. If you go the 225 rods and Wiseco piston route, I'm sure you could get Wiseco to leave the valve pockets out, which are 6.3 cc's. They may charge a $50 extra feed for a "mod" on those piston kits. I would think your boost cam will not be big/long enough to need the valve pockets, and your pistons will be down in the hole. Just a thought.

Another thought would be to use the 7" rods, but get Wiseco to cut a 0.150" dish in the piston, or just flycut the whole top. My guess is there would be enough material since the existing valve pockets are deeper than 0.150".

All the best,

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:10 am 
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That works...
I just took .140 off the tops of a Wiseco set of pistons and I still have small valve notches left. :shock:
My biggest concern is that the top ring land is getting pretty close to the combustion area... those top rings are going to see a good amount of heat.
DD.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:06 am 
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Decisions, I've thought the same thing. I am leaning toward the long rod and flat-topping the pistons. I like the idea of having some decent rods to work with. I'd like to short shift this engine at 5800 to 6000. Seems the only way to do that is with this combination. The bottom end has to be bulletproof, no shortcuts.. Thanks for the ideas....I would entertain more if you come up with anything. My head is way too far into this if you know what I mean.
Thanks and best regards
MaX

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:44 am 
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Many ways to slice the bread, yep. If you did a dish that was maybe 2.80" in diameter and 0.160" deep, that may get you the drop in comp and still keep the ring lands safe.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 12:53 pm 
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That would keep the wiseco rods ...Right? I've got to order pretty quick cause we have to schedule dyno time........It's hard to get.
thanks again
david

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 1:03 pm 
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Yes, K1 7" rods. I just replied to your PM. Wiseco could do the dish on fairly short order, I bet. You could ask Brian Nutter about strength with that much cut off.

Custom length K1 rods will take a while, based on how long mine took.

How much HP you want to make and what boost pressure?

Lou

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