I had the tank out on this 67 Valiant a while back and I cleaned it all out, put a new sock and gasket on the sender. Installed it and gave that lock ring deal a quarter turn or whatever it takes to tighten and installed the tak. Never put more than 5 gallons of gas in it until last week when I filled it up. When I got home I noticed gas was just pouring out of the sender like a faucet on low. Not sure why it didn't seal when I had it out the first time but now I think I'm going to just pull the tank because it's black widow city under there and I don't really want to get my hands up in there or cause a spark trying to get the lock ring to loosen off the sender.

My questions are, can I remove the tank without messing up the filler neck grommet? I'd rather not have to buy one again since they are kind of expensive. Also, is there some sort of trick to keeping the gas from leaking out of the sending unit seal? It looked pretty straightforward to me so I'm not sure how I could have gotten such a large leak there. Should I have put some kind of sealant on the sending units gasket?

Sounds like you didn't have the O-ring gasket centered when you set the lock ring. Try again :shrug:

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Do you think I should take the tank out or is it doable to recenter the seal while the tank is installed?

You don't have anything to lose by trying with the tank installed........

If it doesn't work, then you can take the tank out....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I have heard stories that the newer sender unit rubber rings aren't as think as the old, brother has run into the on a 66-300. Maybe try using some gasket material along with the rubber ring as your pattern to make it thicker, or use some sealer on it. It's going to be a trail and error type job til you get it sealed. Good Luck

don't use silicone gasket sealer inside gas tank, the gas will break it
down and clog filters. some one at work tried it before and it caused
lots of problems.

Put your back axle on stands and it's easy to get to. Don't forget to bring a large container under the car with you to catch the gas that comes out when you open the sending unit lock-ring.

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

Fire Safety is the #1 concern with this job.
Syphone down the tank as far as possible and store the fuel else-where.
Do the work out doors, away from any source of ignition. (water heater pilot, drop light, etc.)

Once the sending unit is out, inspect the solder joint where the tube goes thru the plate. The solder joint can crack and leak.
DD

I would take the rear passenger wheel off and work from beside the car. I would not even consider getting under the car with fuel all over.

I have had one fire while changing a fuel regulator on a fuel injected car, and I still do not really know for sure what ignited it. I was able to jump back and smother the fire on my hands, then put the engine out without any real damage beyond a few charred wires. Worst was some redness and a few blisters on my hands.

This was a very small fire while I was standing in the open, I would not want to be under a car with the tank open.

First: disconnect the battery.

Second: do not wear man made fiber clothes, that stuff will melt when ignited, also they are more apt to create static electric spark.

Third: flammable fluids rated fire extinguisher on hand.

Years ago I had a Corvair (yeah, I know… just an itty bity moment of insanity, I’m harmless now… wink-wink) that was next to imposable to seal that locking ring to the tank. Finally I lubed the “Oâ€￾ ring with some Vaseline so that the lock ring would slide, and not pinch & stretch the “Oâ€￾ ring out of shape, as it became seated.

Also if you can exert an even rotational force to the ring from more than one point, that is, use a wrench or channel lock pliers of some type, rather than tapping on one of the ears with a punch to turn it, you will have more success in sealing the tank up.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Well I ran it almost completely out of gas and took the pass rear wheel off and worked from there. There was a nice big black widow web going between the frame rails that I had to avoid since I'm sure it was hiding up in the frame.

I knocked the lock ring loose and inspected everything. Part of the gasket was torn so I turned it toward the top and reseated the ring. It was too hard to tell what the problem was. I can't tell if the ears on the tank are bent out or what. If this doesn't work I'm going to end up getting some rubber and cutting my own gasket. Then I'm going to just pull the tank and work on it outside. It's too tough to tell if you really have it seated while it's still in the car since you can't get your head in there to inspect everything.

Well that didn't work at all. Looks like I'm going to have to buy some thicker rubber and cut my own gasket. Has anyone here ever done that and are there problems with the rubber softening or dissolving because of the fuel?

You can get a new lock ring and seal under Doorman part # 579-006. The gasket is the same thickness as the original, and if your old lockring wasn't quite flat because of the tapping to get it out, the new lockring Will be flat.

Once you have it apart again, inspect the hole in the tank for burrs or bent metal too. Then, once you put the new seal in, I would do as suggested above and put some sort of light grease on the gasket on the lock ring side to prevent tearing the new gasket.

If that doesn't stop the leak, verify what Doug said and make sure the pipe going through the plate for the sending unit is sealed. I've had more than one crack trying to remove the rubber hose from the pipe.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks Thor. Couldn't find one at any of the parts stores around here so I had to order from Summit. The site said it's on backorder and should be shipped on the 23rd...so we'll see.

This is one of those jobs I might pay a mechanic to do. It is not that hard on a lift. And guys who work on these things all the time know exactly what they are doing, and won't set your car on fire. Since it will only take a short time to fix, it won't be that expensive. And, if it takes longer, chances are you would not have gotten it fixed at all.

I am not being pessimistic here, just realistic. My motto is, I do the stuff that takes a long time, is safe, but is not that hard. And I pay for the jobs that are hard, or dangerous, but don't take long. Mechanics don't love me. Except, I do refer people to my guy all the time. We are almost partners in business by now. He knows he gets referrals for profitable jobs, and in return does the occasional low profit job for me.

Sam

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