I was chasing down what I thought to be an engine "miss" and after setting timing, adjusting valves, new plugs, etc. I still had this "miss". It didn't make sense because it was only felt in 1st and 2nd gear (A904). It started after 2 trips to Mason-Dixon Dragway in the driving rain about 2 hours from home (Chrysler Show and electric car drags).

I started to think the drive train had an issue, maybe bad u-joints. Then I discovered the "pin and trunnion" set-up at the front of the drive shaft. The boot was badly torn. I assume that water got up in there and that along with centrifugal force made the grease go away. I packed some bearing grease in there and taped up the boot the best that I could and, low and behold, my "miss" went away.

Now, is that boot still available? Is there anything else I should address in that area? I haven't looked for the part yet and I'm studying my shop manual.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

I bought a reproduction boot and clamp for about $40 on e-bay a few weeks ago. The quality looks good.

Thought I read somewhere that a VW CV joint boot could be used as well. Don't remember where I saw the info though.

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

yes parts are available---search ball & trunion--Icannot remeber the vendor that has these-ebay as well. Lawrence

Here is a permanent solution:

http://driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html


However, I'm not up for spending $400 on a driveshaft.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

Have it done at your local drive shaft shop. This is my Cuda. Pics and part numbers. Been several years, and the shop gave me a good price, but it should cost about $200.
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I had my local driveshaft shop convert mine, and it was about $400.

Mine cost $119 parts and labor including a new tube, but it was several years ago. Shop prices vary greatly. Shop around.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Great info. Seems like the way to go. Thanks much.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

Update:

I found a NOS boot on ebay for $30 + $6 shipping. I coated it in lithium grease and tried to get it through the trunnion housing to no avail.

Next I'll take it to the drive shaft shop and see if they can press the pin out so I can get the new boot on and then have them press the pin back in. The ball and needle bearings (31 each) LOOK fine but that doesn't really mean they are.

So, in the end I may end up with a new drive shaft with modern spicer components. We'll see where this journey takes me.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

When mine was still the ball & trunion, I tried a NOS boot. It only lasted a couple of months. The problem with NOS boots, is the rubber is 20 or more years old, and dry rotted. I would rather try a new reproduction boot, then a NOS.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The shop manual said I could get a new boot on without removing the pin or trunnion housing so after my fingers healed from the first attempt I went back at it. Well my NOS boot, though seemingly strong, couldn't handle the abuse. So now I'm out $36 and right where I was. I hate the thought of spending so much $$ on a 6 cylinder driveshaft (am I squeaking?). Maybe the original boot was made differently, who knows?

I'm going to try and find an old CV axle split boot that might (or might not) work. I believe after cleaning and re-greasing the needle bearings and housing that all will be OK if I can find a boot. We'll see.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

Andy Bernbaum has the boot you are looking for, but you may need to cross it over to the 1961 or 1962 application to order it.

I have also got reproductions from Robert's Motor Parts. If I remember correctly the instructions that got me the correct part had me specify "the small version" of the boot.

And the shop manual is correct, the boot can be worked through the bell and around the pin. But it is a pain to achieve.

I have the complete driveshaft from my 63 you are welcome to use until you get yours sorted out. This way you can at least drive your car while you're waiting on parts. I'm in Elkton, MD.