The 64 Dart died on the road the other day, thought it might have been another clogged fuel filter. Got it to start and drove it to the parts store bought a new filter. It will run but won't idle below 1000 rpm.
Checked the heat riser on the exhaust manifold and it still moves freely.
It was sticking a while ago but that was cured by spraying it with carb cleaner.
The mechanical choke checks out as well.
Any help on my idling prob ????

I also tried removing the air filter (K&N) to see if it helped, but no change.
If I hold the rpm @ 1000 and then accelerate, the car runs great through all the gears at any speed..............

Throttle plate not returning to full closed position due to accelerator or kick-down linkage binding. Or, worn throttle shaft bushings causing throttle plate to bind, and not fully close.

High idle cam sticking, restricting throttle to return to full closed position.

Choke linkage binding, not allowing throttle to fully close.

Accelerator peddle binding, not fully rebounding to stop.

Crud build-up in carburetor.

New vacuum leak.

Improperly adjusted float level.

Timing advanced for some reason, such as weak or broken mechanical advance spring, or binding mechanical advance mechanism.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

thx for all the info.
i'll chk. it and post the results.
Lee

If I read that correctly, you say it wont idle as in the engine dies. If that is the case, it sounds like the idle circuit got plugged with some gunk. I would take the Carb apart and clean it, then stick on a new filter.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks for the reply.
Yes, you're correct. It dies if you let off the pedal and let the rpm drop below 1000.
When I said I bought a new fuel filter it was replaced at the auto parts store. We were hoping that would fix it.
I'm not sure how any gunk got to the carb, it's never ran without a filter.
If I do have to open up the carb, I should buy a rebuild kit first. right?

Also I need to mention that it has manual brakes so the only vaccum
line is for the distributor.

hi sages- i think thor has the most probable answer to this question. i have had this symptom 3 separate times. 2 were f body 2 barrel carbs, one was an a body 1 barrel carb. all three times it was the same cause, the idle circuit became clogged with crud, despite regular filter changes. probably has something to do with additives in the gas. carb rebuild kits dont tell you how to correct this. what worked for me was a trial an error. take the carb apart, soak it overnight in carb cleaning juice, then use an extremely thin needle or drill bit(tough to find) to ream out the idle circuit. just a small bit of dirt or metal corrosion can cause this. the other causes in the thread would have additional symptoms in addition to wont idle. a rebuilt carb may solve the problem, but most here say that is a shot in the dark. last resort would be a reliable competent carb rebuilder, but expect to get clipped.

There should be 2 vacuum lines on your Carb. One Going from the base to the distributor, and one from the base to the choke pull-off vacuum pod.

What model of carburetor are you working on? I am going to presume its a Holley 1920, and they are notorious for idle circuit issues. I keep a stack of about 8 on hand so I can clean/rebuild them because I have friends with 1bbl carbs. The 1920 can be a major pain to clean, mostly because of the blind holes in the metering block.

Best solution I found:

Go to your preferred auto parts store and order a rebuild kit for your list number. The list number is stamped into the housing near the opening of the carb.
After ordering your kit, purchase a bucket of carburetor dip, which is basically a bucket of solvent. I know you can get this at Autozone for $20.

Take the Carb completely apart, and submerge all the metal parts into the dip and let it sit overnight at least. I let mine soak for a few days, but I have spares, so letting it sit longer is a non-issue.

Once you pull it out, use compressed air (preferably) to blow through all the little holes, and make sure you can blow through all the holes. After that, start carefully putting the Carb back together using one of the manuals that Dan posted quite some time ago, chances are it will be much more accurate than the instructions in the kit.

Bolt it back on the car with a new filter (or using the new one you just got would work too) and see how it goes. If it clogs again, it might be time to clean the tank out.

Should You decide to do that, drain (siphon) the fuel out and get in there!

You will want to order a new lockring and seal for the sending unit, doorman part# 579006. Remove and inspect the sending unit, there should be a "filter" on the end of the metal line in the tank, if that is missing, that would explain all the crud in the Carb.

At this point, its not too difficult to remove the tank and clean it. The hardest part is putting the fuel fill pipe back into the tank seal. If you are careful, and use some sort of grease (vaseline would work) the pipe should slide back in without too much fuss. Have
someone help you put it back in, makes it much easier.

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

hello thor- good answer. used to put the disassembled carb in a small pail and let it soak in a solvent called gumout. not sure if that product is still out there. the solvent soak does not always clean out the narrow idle circuit passage especially if the metal has some corrosion or solidified queet in there. have used a very thin stiff wire, drill bit or needle. moe told me if i could find a thin hypodermic needle it might work. how do you handle that conundrum? bet you have a perfect shortcut, i havent thought of yet. thanks paladin

Bob, for the larger holes I use one of those bendable "pipe cleaner" rods that you see kids twist into weird shapes during their early years, the colored ones. For smaller holes, I use paperclips, mostly because you can get ridiculously small ones but they are still fairly rigid, which allows you to scrape a bit and work the gunk out, or in the case of a screwy metallic stalactite you can usually break it off. I haven't noticed any real metal blockages in the Carb body, but the metering blocks are a whole different story. A small mirror and a bright flashlight can also help in identifying internal issues on any Carb.

The 1920 itself is pretty straightforward and I have had much success with getting them cleaned out. Its a situation where you can't be in a hurry, or you will miss something... I learned that the hard way... LOL

~RDE~

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I find that hard mono-filament is better than poking with a drill bit. If it is really clogged with oxidation I use a guitar string. It does less damage unless you have some alodine handy to re-coat the surface.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I really appreicate all the replies.
I have had the gas tank out before and thought I had it clean.
We were putting the fuel filter inline before the fuel pump to save clogging that up.
The pick up screen inside the tank has been missing since we put this motor and trans in the Dart over a year ago.
That was one of the main reasons for placing the fuel filter before the fuel pump.
Whenever the motor started to sputter, etc. we would replace the filter and it solved the problem temporarily.
Since posting problems here about vapor lock we have moved the fuel filter back to it's original location just before the carb.
I want to check the fuel pressure after the pump to insure the
fuel pump is not an issue.
Then I guess it's on to the Carb itself.
It is a Holley, possibly the 1920 and you're right there is a vaccum line for the choke pull off.
It is a rebuilt from the auto parts store and has been fine for all this time until now.
I have rebuilt carbs over the years and I'll check on the availability of a rebuild kit and carb dip.