I am not getting any ported vacuum from my 2300. I know this because I put in a "t" fitting on the hose that goes to the distributor, and ran it to a vacuum gauge inside the car.

Here is were I thought the ported vacuum should be.



The carb has been apart, cleaned, rebuilt, and works flawlessly (other than rich, but thats my fault) apart from no ported vacuum. There are no idle mix screws on the side because they are built into the base of the carb on the side you can't see.

Any ideas?

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The ported vacuum should be on the metering block as shown. Let me look at what I have. What are the numbers on your metering block?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That port is showing how much vacuum at idle?
Got any more shots of your carb?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Fixed it!!!

Had THOR stop by and pulled the bowl and block...

There are only 3 things on a holley that can cause this:
1) base plate not drilled for the port
2) Metering block not machined with the 'J' to use the hole in the throttle body
3) Gasket was wrong type and does not have the hole in the lower corner to match the low end of the J on the metering block, or the hole next to the lower left bowl screw for hole to the manifold vacuum.

Winner is number 3, with a little hole making by my favorite #A10 scratch awl, we went from 5 initial and 21 total advance at 2600 rpm....to 10 initial, about 26 total mech, and 47 at 2600 (now with more advance thanks to mr. vacc pod!!!)

We'll see if he has any pinging, and if he now goes through 1/2 a tank of gas a week instead of 3/4...or better...




-D.Idiot