Hi,

Was thinking of upgrading my front brakes to Drilled and slotted double caliper Disc brakes. Hopefully by the time the cars finished it'll have a fair bit of power around 300hp at the rear. And It's my daily driver I'm a younger driver and I drive a lot so I'd feel much safer if my heavy beast could stop a lot better and more often then most cars.

Is it possible to get ABS installed or is it stupidly expensive ? (I think it'd be too expensive)

is it worth getting the drilled and slotted? it's my understanding this gives a faster heat transfer allowing the car to stop a bit faster.

Dual calipers again faster heat transfer faster stopping more stopping etc

And does anyone know of a kit that also comes with a Booster?

I've seen a cheap one on ebay that looks terrible.
Pentastarparts.com.au/sunshop seems to have a few but I want to know if you guys have a 'best kit' or a range to look at first.

sorry theres a lot of questions, I did some researching and got some mixed answers so thought it be best to ask.

As far as it goes I would look at 4 wheel disc brakes. The Mopar fronts are adequate and you will want to convert to a larger rear than a 7 1/4 rear for that HP. What is this in???
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

For 300 rwhp all you need is the factory 11.75 rotors with stock calipers up front. Rear drum brakes will work just fine. You'll need 15 inch wheels to clear the 11.75 rotors.

If you have money burning a hole in your pocket then there are plenty of options. 13 x 1.250 rotors up front with drum brakes in the rear will work for 400 rwhp. You'll need 17 inch rims to clear the larger rotors. Read a few of my posts and you'll see the options that are out there.

Rear disc brakes are nice to have but not really necessary until the car is super fast. You also open up a moderate sized can of worms with rear discs as you need to address the axle bearing issue (roller or ball) as well as the e-brake issue, wheel selection, tire clearance, hose routing, etc. Nothing that a good mechanic and a thick wallet can't solve of course.

Thank-you very much.

Think just for now I'll upgrade the front brakes. At the moment can't afford new wheels or anything ... What you said sounds good, this is for a VC valiant. and I just want to stop as good as a regular car if not better...
Money is always an issue just how much I am willing to spend on the brakes system is abit higher then most people.

You didn't mention what year your car was made. If 1966 or earlier, it likely has a single reservoir master cylinder. That is one of the first things to upgrade, total brake failure isn't fun.

I'm glad you're looking at brakes before you need them!

I have plans for the "Objective Valiant" that include four-wheel disks. That, however is far in the future, and the car is a driver for now. In the mean time, the most cost-and-time-effective solution for me was a front disk swap from a '74 Duster. The late A-body disk swap is well documented online, and works well. My "kit" came from junkyards, ebay, and Rockauto.com.

The 11.75" rotors andyf mentioned are the next upgrade in my plan - and the brackets are already on the shelf in my garage.

BTW, by "dual calipers" do you mean calipers with two pistons each, or multiple calipers?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Well you need to careful when you say you're willing to spend money on brakes. The last brake kit that I put on a '68 Valiant cost more than $3000 and that was just for the front brakes. The rear was another bill. And the owner also needed 17 inch rims and then 17 inch tires. It is about a $5000 upgrade by the time he was finished. Of course, that cars goes 150+ mph on a road race track and the guy would like to be able to stop....

Another cheap option is to get a set of VJ stub axles and callipers,they will bolt up to your upper and lower control arms.If you want to keep your early stud pattern wheels,you can buy early stud pattern vented discs from Hemi Performance to suit the VJ stub axles.You can also use a master cylinder of a VE or VF Valiant,it uses the same pushrod as the VC and mounts using the same holes on your firewall.This is what i did on my AP6 and i have heaps of stopping power.If you find down the track that this is not enough stopping power,you could add a booster over the other side of the firewall,i have even heard of some people mounting them up under the dash on the left.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

BUCKET 666 that sounds like a good idea. (y).

Was considering two calipers... or dual pistons I'm unsure about which is better, I was leaning towards dual pistons as I think dual calipers would be over kill.

Dual calipers would be a lot of extra weight. I can't imagine any need for dual calipers with only 300 rwhp.

The calipers in the picture I posted above have 6 pistons. Those calipers use a C5 or C6 Corvette brake pad so a lot of different compounds are available. It is a very nice setup but fairly expensive. Something like that isn't really required until you have more than 500 hp.