I have looked high and low at hardware stores, auto parts stores, even a specialty bolt store, and I have been unable to find grade 8 bolts that will work without modification in the intake to exhaust manifold bolt holes. I can find grade 8 bolts of the right size and pitch, but the thread stop about two inches too short for the bolt to pass completely through the exhaust manifold. I am going to end up stacking a bunch of flat washers under the head of the bolt so I can use grade 8 bolts, but I really don't like that.

Anybody know where to get the correct bolts?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I usually check these guys. You have to order $30.00 worth is the only drawback. http://www.amkproducts.com/

Have you tried www.mcmaster.com?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I haven't tried either of those sources yet. I'll check them out. Thanks.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed
If you find the right part and need a minuim order Ill go in with you.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Last time I did this, I took a pair of 5/16" grade 8 bolts like above that were long enough (bought at Lowes...)...then chucked them one at a time into a vice, and used the 'deluxe' harbor freight nitrided thread and tap set (not the small black case version...the bigger grey cased one)...and cut the threads further down the shank using a smidge of old ATF as cutting lube...so far it's worked great for the offy to stock manifold stack...
Not sure this trick would work so good with stainless steel, though.


FYI,

-D.Idiot

Thanks guys. I'll keep digging since I know this is something we all can use. Those original bolts are 23 years, at best (1987 slant powered truck) and usually much older.

DI- I'll keep that in mind. But first I need to get a bench vise.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thinking outside the box here - how about grade 8 all-thread?

I would do the exact opposite. Drill the exhaust manifold and use the cheapest bolts/nuts possible, then they will break after they rust together and come out easily.

You beat me to it...

Just thought of this.....


Do you really need grade 8?


If not, how about stainless threaded rod?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Stainless has tensile strength less then a grade 5 bolt doesn't it? You may be on to something though, because I imagine it would be less prone to seizing.

I don't think you can drill the center hole can you? I haven't seen a stock exhaust in years, but I thought it was a blind hole. If you drill it out won't it go into the exhaust chamber?

Invest in some high temp antiseize - silver or nickel.

This is what I did for years. It worked fine, in my opinion. Now, I have a modified rear exhaust manifold, and I had a local welder close off the rectangular opening where the manifolds come together. The rear exhaust manifold is right next to the bottom of the Offy intake, so there is some heat transfer.

This is just one option, but I don't have to worry about exhaust leaks.
Just my humble opinion...

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Oh yeah, kudos to Reed for wanting to do it the right way.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318