This is a body/sub frame question, so i think it belongs here...

I pulled the K-member out of the FDX project to have it cleaned and welded up and after drilling the engine bay rail and instering straw for
multiple PB blaster applications to the K-member bolts, one of the things just jambed and even after heat, more PB it was seized (both ways...).
I tryed to get it to tighten with a cheater bar and the "nut" held in the frame rail came loose...and after that I had to resort to my good buddy the angle grinder cutoff wheel...

Has anyone replaced the k-member enginebay frame rail "nuts"...
I'm a little bit leary of cutting open the bottom of the affected nut and
welding something to the rail... I have some duster "chunks", that include
those parts I was saving to practice welding the control arm point up to make sure they were unitized and gusseted.

Anyhow I think I can come up with a patch that I could weld in place with a "nut"...but it won't be flush...but I think the K-member would be "even", if I were "shim" the other 3 connector points with the same thickness metal to make it even (thinking same gauge as frame rail 18/20 gauge).

Anyone, do this repair and have some pointers, or does the repair and "shim" technique seem "sound" in theory?

Thanks,

-D.Idiot

Personally I'd cut open the subframe and weld in a new piece from the donor subframe. You should see what some people fix. The pictures on the Auto Rust Technicians web site make your job look really minor. If you're decent with the welder and get good penetration this should be a very secure repair.

_________________
Joshua

Di
Watch for warpage and make sure you have everything mocked up at the very least. I find that things with bolts/holes tend to get misaligned by most folks. Remember to keep things cool.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I dont see whay you couldnt cut a port hole into the side of the frame, and weld a nut back to the inside, then weld a patch over the port hole.Make sure the welds are short good ones....and dont warp it.LOL
Andrew/Kidd

_________________
Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Let me guess, was this problem bolt was located under the battery tray area? If so, you may want to check the thickness of the rail several inches from the damaged area to make sure it is solid, and acid free.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

What Kidd said.....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sounds like a plan to me...
No, battery tray and rails are intact, but the rear passenger side bolt decided to be a problem...oddly the other 3 came out without much fanfare.... oddly enough I had pulled the K member on beater valiant thinking this might happen but they all came out fine...(must be the temperment of the car...right?

If things were better at work I'd haul it in put it on the mechanic's lift and roll the TIG welder over and do it right.

-D.Idiot

A friend of mine locally had his frame fail exactly where your problem is because a mouse built a next there. It trapped moisture and sat there for years as the rust did it's thing.

I am in agreement with cutting a hole in the side and checking things out. Then weld a good sized patch over everything. Maybe make it a foot long or so. Kind of the opposite of lightening the car.

Sam

_________________

Let us know how it comes out. Good luck

_________________
www.extrememopars.com

sounds like a great idea,way to improvise!