i agree with doc. just keep a bottle around with some gas in it. thats what i do.

Then I think I'll just have to live with it.
I'll try to unscrew the fuel line to the carb to see if the needle is leaking, but other than that, that's it.

Thanks,

Antoon

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suffering from severe moparitis

I don’t recall having such a problem with dry starts back in the days of atmospherically vented carburetors if they are working properly. Than again it doesn’t get too hot around Maine for days on end.

Perhaps all of these troublesome carburetors need a freshening up with a rebuild. My 82 LeBaron is carburetored, granted it has a vapor return system, but that engine always fires right up at any temperature after weeks or months of not running.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Like Doc says, having the exhaust manifold bolted right to the intake causes the the fuel to boil and vaporize during heat soak. To eliminate that Chrysler used a aluminum heat deflector blanket to minimize the heat transfer. I have seen that on several two barrel Super Six set ups on trucks.

As an experiment I have found that even making a much smaller and simpler $10.00 .090 thick aluminum deflector helps a lot to minimize the effect. Also after switching over to an electric fan the problem significantly reduced to where my engine will start any time with one pump. I have my fan wired to where it can come on as many times as it needs to during heat soak. So the carb never gets too hot to touch. In fact the aluminum also wicks away heat as well as deflects it. Between the SL6Dan's fuel line mod, heat deflector and electric fan, the problem has gone away. However, some carbs vent more than others. My 1920 has the fuel bowl vapor return line system. That pollution control system is worth keeping on your vehicles.......

Click on the red link below my name to view pictures of the set up.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

There is a picture of the factory original heat shield from a parts catalog or manual in one of the links in one of my posts here in this thread.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Where?

What thread?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

This, the one you're in right now, first link in my second post.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Brand? Vendor?

Ken

Not sure if it's the exact one (as there are several manufacturers)

At the time I got the cheapest one that was on sale


Something like this

http://www.jcwhitney.com/universal-soli ... ilterid=j1


Lowest pressure (1-3psi)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I understand why heat soke could cause such a problem, but wouldn't that mean that the carb will dry out immediately, or at least after one day? Usually an engine is back to outside temperature after a few hours. But since my car starts perfect after one or even two days. After three days it starts ok, just needs a little more cranking, but after a week I'm cranking the hell out of it.
A little offtopic, but my three cilinder 1988 suzuki alto, which is also carburated even starts fine after sitting for a month, just touch the key and it goes.

I'll try to cap of the bowl vent after a long drive, and see what happens.

Antoon

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suffering from severe moparitis

Antoon,

You need a new needle and seat to keep the fuel from draining back and a good float that isn't fuel soaked and sunk. My fuel pressure gauge shows between 4 and 9 pounds after shut off and will still show a minimum of 4 pounds even if I let it set for month. It will start with one pump of the gas days later.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The needle and seat are there to prevent excessive fuel from entering the bowl. Once the fuel level has fallen to below "full" (via evaporation or leak), the valve will be open.

Remember that the stock mechanical fuel pump, and any solenoid-type electric pump, contains two (2) check valves, one at the pump inlet and the other at the discharge. If the fuel pump is capable of developing pressure, its check valves are functional and fuel *cannot* drain back to the tank. If either check valve leaks, the pump will not develop its rated pressure.

Ken

Pump is new, so I'll try Ted's advise. Any idea where I can get a good rebuikd kit which contains all these parts?

Thanks,

Antoon

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suffering from severe moparitis

Look in the Engine FAQ, Carb section that SL6Dan put together. Part numbers for the Walker kits are listed. Also Joe's Carb Rebuild in Lynnwood has the individual parts for sale. Look under SL6 Network for address and number. Most NAPA Auto Parts carry them too.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Here's a solenoid style electric fuel pump that can be piped either series or parallel with the stock mechanical pump.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 20+2020014
amazon.com has it for $47.95:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69405-Elect ... B001C6254A
Advance Auto Parts has it for $62.49:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/2/66 ... 69405.html
It wil flow right around one fluid ounce per second, which will quickly fill the carburetor bowl. The easiest way to wire it is to connect it to the start circuit...when the engine cranks, it will run. If you run your engine at full power, I recommend piping in parallel. If you pipe in series, its probably best to pipe it between the mechanical pump and the carb. This arrangement doesn't affect the suction side of the mechanical pump, which is the most critical.

Ken