Refloating this thread.

I have found out that the cams are still available, they are made of billet steel and they cost around ARP 2500/3000 (circa USD 625 / 750) not cheap at all.

The cam should be ground and then it should be re-hardened and re-straightened. To produce the cam a very important fact is the roller diameter, because that will affect the way the roller lifter follows the cam.

Here they used Isky roller lifters, so there you should have a wide variety of options. To solve the problem with the link bar between the two lifters of the same cylinder the machined kind of a half-moon in between the Intake and Exhaust lifter bores to make room for the link bar. The connecting bar was placed facing the bores.

Couldn't find the exact Isky part # for the roller, maybe latter.

Any further info I can find I'll post it here. Or if you have any specific question that you would like me to address, be my guest!


Also about oil/pump vs cam gear fairlure one way to solve this is to use a thicker cam, this way we can avoid the cam moving up & down at high RPM. I wanted to mention this since, as far as I read I couldn't find someone talking about thicker cams blanks to avoid this problem.

Regards! Martin

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Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)

Martin,

Thanks for posting the roller cam info. I may go with a roller in the second Bonneville engine. The first 'cheap' engine already has a flat tappet cam ground on one of the thick cam cores. The base circle is pretty much flush with the shaft itself. I should post pictures.

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Joshua

Yes, thats the way they made the thicker steel cams here too.

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Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)