I noticed that the black heavy wire that connect to my alternator is very hot right at the passenger side barrel connector. From what I can trace this wire runs to the Ammeter via the bulkhead connector, then to the firewall power block and finally the battery positive.

I'd like to upgrade my alternator to a 100-amp unit in the future, so this looks like a good opportunity to lay the foundation. This would bypass the Ammeter but I am fine with that. I am thinking of running a heavier gauge wire directly to the firewall power block, and possibly beefing up the wire from the firewall power block to the battery. What type of circuit protection (if any) should I use? I believe the factory circuit used a fusible link.

I intend to install an electric radiator fan and a stereo amp so I know I don't want to tax the stock wiring any further.

I was cruising the FABO forums and found reference to just adding a wire, not bypassing the dash wiring. The wire would be added between the alternator and the firewall power block, leaving the factory wiring in place. This new wire would need to have a fusible link. The ammeter would no longer read correctly but the power would no longer have to all flow through the bulkhead connector.

I have a 1-1/2" diameter volt meter sitting in the garage waiting to go in place of the stock Ammeter.

Thoughts anyone?

Some folks have run a wire straight to the battery from the alternator. You could install a fuseable link or circuit breaker in this additional line. Do a search on this site......I read where one member built a nice regulator from diodes that allowed the additional wire to operate with the stock wiring so the amp meter still worked at lower amp draws, but still shunted power directly to the battery for higher loads.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Oldspowered:

No problem adding new loads.
I would be concerned with parallel conductors feeding the same devices. In industrial wiring there are rules that have to be followed regarding over current interruption of these feeds.

In other words, if you don’t fuse these two paths for electron flow to the same devices properly, you are going to burn something up if one if the conductors fail, or develops an over current condition.

One would be better off to run a new, larger gage single conductor properly fused to the distribution point.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

After reading more and getting creative with my searches I found mention (by Dan) of running a #10 gauge wire from the alternator B (+) post to the battery positive. This look like the route I am going to take. I currently run my HEI directly off the battery (using a relay). I just want to take some of the load off the main charging wire (which is the one heating up).