The stud is totally stripped so i cant spin two nuts on and twist it out, i really dont want to snap it. Does anybody have a clever solution to my proplem?

Thanks,

-Max

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1973 Plymouth Valiant 225 Torqueflite 904

1) Get a stud remover (like harbor freight stud removal kit...you need the 5/16" remover).

2) Have a buddy weld a nut onto the stud and remove/ or snap...

3) Have machine shop remove

Another option requires some of 1 and 2... you can have a buddy heat stud until glowing red with oxy/acet torch, then quench base with parafin/wax...hold heat to base of stud to draw wax into threads and remove using #1...

More destructive version: heat stud with oxy/acet torch until hot red, then
tap the oxygen lever and "burn" the stud out, blowing stud hole out with oxygen...use titanium nitride thread tap to clean out with oil...


-D.Idiot

Heat the stud red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch (use neutral or carburizing flame) immediately adjacent to the gasket surface. Tap the end of the stud with a hammer. Use a light blow. Let it cool to room temperature. This process causes the stud threads to break loose and shrink. You should be able to grab it with a ViceGrip plier (or two). Apply torque and simultaneously tap the end of the stud with a hammer. Use a moderate blow. You'll probably need a helper.

DO NOT attempt to turn the stud until it cools completely, or you *will* snap it off!

Heating expands the stud, which is constrained by the surrounding casting. The softened threads deform and the stud permanantly elongates. As it cools the threads shrink in diameter. Tapping with a hammer when hot helps the threads deform, and tapping when cold applies vibration to break the thread loose (similar to an impact wrench). Heating and slow cooling the stud also changes the microstructure of the metal such that its softer and weaker.

Be patient! Let it cool completely!

If it didn't loosen or snap off, you can try heating the casting around the stud, but not the stud itself. This expands the casting to a larger diameter, and loosens its grip on the stud. Use the same ViceGrip and hammer procedure after the casting is warm. You can also cool the stud with an ice cube, just don't cool the casting. If you heat the casting, you must turn the stud as soon as the casting is hot. Do Not Delay! If you delay, wait for the parts to cool to room temperature and start over.

These heating methods will successfully loosen 80-90% of "frozen" threaded fasteners without damaging the part. I use the same methods to loosen rusted brake bleeders (haven't broken one in over 20 years). With brake bleeders though you *must* use a 6-point box wrench or socket. A 12-point tool will round off the flats and make removal much more difficult.

As for the torch, I recommend using a cutting tip, but do not hit the cutting oxygen trigger. The six preheat flames will quickly heat the part. After you use these methods a few times it will become second nature and you'll get a feel for how hot, how long, how much torque and how much hammer blow is required The ViceGrip needs to have sharp teeth on the jaws. Buy a new one if necessary. I prefer the curved jaw of a #10CR or #10WR. Clamp it on as tight as you can, in the deepest part of the jaw.

Ken

Not sure if this was said.

Happened to me, Was able to use a pair of pinch pliers. Took a fair bit of elbow grease to get it but was pretty straight forward. Guessing it wasn't stuck in as bad as these guys above me have had it^^ But the thread was completely stripped.

I should also note that heating the fastener with a torch destroys its heat treatment and all of its strength. It becomes scrap metal. Do not reuse it for any purpose.

Ken

W.r.t. the Harbor Freight stud extractor - the ones I bought looked rather like deep 1/2" drive sockets. The 5/16" broke the 1st time I tried to use it a few years later on an exhaust stud. I took it back w/ receipt to the HF store and they said they didn't sell it anymore and hence wouldn't replace it.

It's the one and only time I bothered to try out HF's "lifetime warranty".

I have got them out before using WD-40 or Inox and a set of vice grips.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I have gotten then out with a collet in a milling machine they grab the stud as tight as it would a end mill. But that's no help unless you have a milling machine.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

That sounds like an excellent excuse...er...reason...to add a milling machine to one's tool collection!

Ken