The bottom of the oil pickup abuts the floor of the oil pan -- or danged close.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I get the pickup to touch the bottom of the pan without sump gasket.

Then you get a little space when you use the gasket.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Fellas,
Gotta ask a few questions before I spring the big reveal of the Toyota on ya. It has turned out....increadably ugly. It is, by far, the HICKEST project I have ever done. There were many unforseen problems, and many red herrings, but the engine is in and it starts and runs, and drives. A few quick questions, some tweaking, and then prepare yourself to get physically ill when I post pictures of "it".

1. Heat - Aftermarket mechanical temp gauge shows about 210 at the thermostat when I flog it. Right now it has strait water. Is that about right?

2. Choke - I have the 1945. When it's fully warm, the fast idle set screw should be OFF the little choke step plate, right? A in free floating - not riding on the smooth part of the plate?

3. PCV goes to the big port under the carb, power brakes go to the nipple on #6 intake, teeny vac port goes to the EGR, remaining port goes to the distributor - correct?

4. 833 - Do ALL these trannies grind going into reverse?

5. Oil - pressure is about 40lbs cold and 8-10lbs hot at idle. Correct enough not to worry about?

6. More oil - engine leaks when running at back of block. Could be oil pan gasket, could be rear main seal. Is there any other leak source I don't know about?

Thanks,
Kip "soon to be" Truckin'

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

1 yea about right....have you drill 1/8 hole in top of stat....add 50/50 mix antifreeeze
2 yes
3 port to dist should not have vac at idle
4 mine also grinds going into 1st at times also check oil
5 ya good enough
6back of cam ...valve cover


keep on roddin'

Here we go. It's almost 3 months late, but it is mostly done. Behold the slant six powered Toyota 1 ton ex rental stock. I bought it on ebay in 2008 for $2200 and put 100k on the crappy Toyota engine, wasting perhaps $1500 in repairs along the way. If I had a time machine, I would have done this swap a long time ago.

I learned a LOT along the way, and honed my meager fabrication chops. I should point out that the ENTIRE project was done THE WRONG WAY. No assistance and few tools. I borrowed a welder but it didn't work, so I used a clever combination of saws-all, bench vise, stepper drill bits, vice grips, a plastic caliper gauge, a turkey baster, an 1 decent cobalt piloting bit. I learned that you can cut sheet metal with a vice grip and metal fatigue - fold it enough and it will break nicely.

I'll skip most of the dirty details and get right to the pics. Here's Day 1:


I know a few of you have Toyotas like this. The key to the whole magilla was a 3" body lift, and moving the front bumper out along with the grille. Then I used some all-thread to extend the headlights. I made the passenger side mount with some box tubing bolted to the stock mounting holes in the block, and it mates to the frame with a thru bolt and a big rubber biscuit. The driver's side uses the stock motor mount, which mates to a spring shackle bolted to the frame. The tranny mount is the stock Toyota pad turned upside down, mated to some scrap steel and secured with a 4" U-bolt. Mid-project, I realized the motor mounts would probably not hold up to engine torque, so I made a second set of mounts that grab the engine on both sides and essentially strap it to the frame. The engine is suspended on rubber so it can vibrate a tiny bit, but it can't heel over under torque. Works pretty well.










The key to the whole swap, and the biggest problem by far, was the clutch. The Toyota has a 5/8" hydraulic master cylinder stock. This truck was an automatic, so I went to the junkyard and got the pedal assembly and a new master. After much headscratching, it turns out that 5/8" was just not big enough to move the 833OD clutch, so I spent $77 on a universal 1 1/8" master from Summit. The slave cylinder was the big issue. At first I tried the stock Toyota slave. No go. Then I doubled it up and ended up with this:


Still no good. It barely worked, but it didn't matter because when I went to put it in it hit the frame. Dang. After MUCH headscratching and teeth gnashing, I stumbled on this:


That's a concentric throwout bearing for a 93 Jeep Wrangler. It didn't quite fit over the input bearing retainer of the trans, so I got a grinding wheel and took .005 off the IBR. I also shimmed it out from the trans with some spacers I made. It was almost impossible to get this silly thing bled, but eventually I did. It works, but I'm unsure how long it will last. The throwout bearing face rides on the clutch fingers all the time, but that's the way it was designed.



The hood scoop is a 15" speaker frame, which fits the 12" air cleaner nicely.

I spent a lot of time on the gauge cluster. Basically, I got a junkyard one, hogged it out, made an aluminum plate, cut my gauge holes, and installed a bunch of gauges I had lying around. I am particularly proud of the working turn signal and high beam indicators. In this pic, you see where the shifter happens to fall. You'll notice that YES, the parking brake "captures" the shifter so you can never drive off with the brake on - a safety feature! And YES, when you put it in reverse the shift knob hits the key and shuts the engine off and YES when you shift into second the shifter bangs into the steering wheel. The answer will be to bend the shifter, though I'm not sure how I'll do that.





As we stand, it starts fine and seems to run ok. I could be wrong but the slant seems a LOT lighter than the Toyota engine and trans. Haven't done a 4 wheel burnout yet, but I will soon. I need to replace the Home Depot plumbing that is the upper radiator hose. I need to tweak the timing some more. I need to hook up the EGR. But I've driven it around the block extensively and pulled some steep hills with it. Seems a little weak but that's probably the timing. I'm going to replace the headlights with something a little sturdier, and I'll replace the silly stock grille at the same time. I happen to have a grille from a 70 Newport that looks pretty good on there. I'll extend the hood out with sheet metal to cover up the gaps.

I'll post more as I get this stuff done.

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

Interesting. When you started warning us about it's looks, I was expecting something from the road warrior.

Looking forward to seeing it as it evolves!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

What transmission are you using?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Spending half a mil. on a Chip Foose custom Blingthing may be cool for some people, but Kip; that Topar or whatever you call it is a REAL custom. I love it!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Add a y....

Toypar


Or maybe Slantota

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yes, Slantota has an almost exotic ring to it. And it is definitely a one-off!

Hey Kip, I hope you don't mind us giving your truck a new name?

Olaf

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Aspenized

I take credit for coining Slantota (back on page 2 of this very thread). ToyPar is pretty good though. Someday when it's all done I'll put a big callout on the hood that says "Powered By Plymouth". That will get me pulled over even more often!

Ems, it's an 833 overdrive trans, and the motor is the matching hydraulic slant, both from an 83 D150. I have a spare 65 slant lying around, so there was much mixing and matching of bits. For instance, I used the early alternator mount, early exhaust head pipe, late air cleaner, and so forth.

More things I learned on this swap:
Bolts - I think I must have spent $200 just on miscellaneous bolts and nuts and washers. That stuff REALLY adds up, and no matter how many you put in the bag at Sears you always end up a few short and have to make another bolt run.

Autozone- they suck. I already knew they suck, but I didn't appreciate just how much they sucked till I had to put parts on order with them. I needed a lousy oil pan gasket set for an 83 Slant - that process took over a week with them. The boobs behind the counter know NOTHING about ANYTHING. I'm now happy to pay a little more at Napa - those guys really bailed me out, especially with the clutch lines and fittings.

Welding - it would have been a LOT easier and neater to do this if I'd had a welder. Even a stick welder.

Drill Press - don't have one, really would have saved a lot of hassle. All I have is a cordless drill. I suck.

Flare Tool - you simply CANNOT buy a non-chinese tubing flare tool anymore. I would have done better to find a good one on ebay.

Cobalt Drill Bits - they are the only ones that actually work. As you would expect, they are expensive.

Wratchet Straps - I never had to do this before, but when I had the slant on the cherry picker (engine hoist) I used a wratchet strap as an engine tilter. For some reason, this particular slant wanted to lean.

Kip

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

My slant six '87 d150 4 speed overdrive pickup gets 12-13 mpg and 15 or less on the highway. I know I could tune it a little better with some effort, but the aerodynamics are against me and the weight of the truck doesn't help either.

My vote is to spend the money on headgaskets and metric wrenches, and save up for a small displacement v8 truck. Maybe you can get one with a wrecked bed at an auction and throw your box on it?

EDIT: I must have not seen the other ten pages of this thread.
Sorry! Truck looks super rad!!!

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madam im adam

The SLAYOTA!!!

I like it....in an odd, unexplainable sort of way. but then I was raised around farm machinery and we weren't the sort of farm folks who had the money to go buy big shiney new tractors. We had to make due with what was around most of the time.

And I've seen some real crazy mechanical conversions/adaptations....like a relatively late-model Japanese 4 banger powering a disgustingly beat up Falcon Ranchero hay-bail hauler....just because the engine/trans combo was free and the Ranchero needed a new powerplant.

Of course, one big difference was that the Ranchero just putted around the fields and probably would come apart if ever used on any sort of real road. But just the same...your Yote is cool man.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

I'd be interested in what the slave cylinder did once you put on the larger master? Would it not move or move enough. Did it leak. It seems that a slant six clutch should be able to be pushed by a small slave. It is all hydraulics after all. I have been trying to watch for some way to get a poor mans hydraulic set up using some modern( cheap) parts. It sounds like it could be more hassle than it is worth.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

That is so cool!! Love it!!

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Scott - waywardgarage.com
Why is the rum always gone?