Ok so heres the deal, the Vert won't start. I get nothing when I turn the key. I think it is the ignition switch, there is no voltage to the ignition wire to the starter relay when I turn the key to "START".
I can get the starter to turn the engine over when I arc the terminals on the starter with the key in the "ON" position
So I have 2 questions

1. If I want to bypass the neutral safety switch to make sure it is not the problem where would I put a jumper wire. (OR does it mean the neutral safety switch is OK if I can start it by arcing the starter terminals?)

AND

2. How do I remove the ignition switch from a 1966 Dart GT. It looks like I need to remove a lock ring and pull it out of the dash.

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If your ignition switch is fasten to the dash like my 67 Dart’s, than it is held in place by a chrome ring that is threaded onto the face of the switch. Back the ring off by turning it counter clock wise. It may or may not turn willingly. Once that ring is off, the switch can be pulled free behind the dash, and lowered into view.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Take the wire that goes to the neutral safety switch and ground it. This will by-pass that switch. If still no crank, then it is likely the ignition switch. You can pull the yellow wire, and have a friend turn the key while you put a VOM on the yellow wire. It should read 12 volts in the crank position. If no 12 volts, then it is the switch for sure, or I suppose the wiring to the switch. If the yellow wire gives you 12 volts, and you get no crank with the neutral switch wire grounded, then the relay is bad. On my car that wire is either black or brown. I can no longer tell.

When I put the stick shift in, I simply grounded this wire myself to activate the relay since there is no neutral safety switch on my set up. Modern cars have a switch on the clutch pedal that perform this function, but I do not wish to apply pressure to the crank thrust bearing while the engine is cranking, and dry. That safety system puts excessive wear on the thrust bearing.

Sam

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Ok, so I replaced the starter relay and fusible link. The link would test good, then bad, good, then bad... It is cheap and well worth it to replace after all these years. The relay would click and make noises I didn't like so again, it was cheap and should last the rest of the cars life. I got it all back together and nothing when the key was turned to "START". So with the help of you guys I pulled the ignition switch and with the help of my bride i checked continuity of all the contacts, switch checked out good.
So I traced the wiring and put the switch back in. I thought to myself "just turn the key". She started cranking, pumped the gas twice and vroom shes running.

It still amazes me how many times I "fix" things by simply taking them apart and putting them back together.

That mini starter sounds funny in there!

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One other "mopar" check not found in most of the books, is to do the test on the yellow wire, and then wiggle the key...at some point in time the dash ignition switches get a bit loose/worn out...just keep that in mind (and make sure to have a spare handy).
Note that mopar used a clutch pedal safety switch on the 70's A-bodies, the mid-60's A-body the starter relay has a permanent tab on it to ground that out if the car had a manual tranny...It used to be a standard safety rule at drag strips that you couldn't bypass this feature, having seen the aftermath when someone who's used to an automatic 'fire it up', with the car in gear (in one case even worse, the car had the throttle stuck open as well...).

-D.Idiot

I understand. I really do. But the bad things always happen to the other guy, right?:shock: Both my DD's are Toyota products. But the sudden acceleration they have talked about could never happen to my cars. I guess we all turn a blind eye to what COULD go wrong every time we get in a car.

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