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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2010 3:06 pm
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Location: PORT WASHINGTON WI
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So I was talking apart my 64 slant 225 when the last stud closes to the fire wall broke. I heated it up and drill it for easy out and now that is stuck in there. Guys any advise you can give me please. 1964 dart


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Yup the hardened chunk, broken off in the soft stuff…Got to love that one!!! I always do…

About all you can do is use a small prick punch, gently tap it with a small hammer tangentially clockwise on the broken easy-out. At some point it will loose its grip, become loose, and than get a hold of it with needle nosed pliers. Be gentle, you don’t want to peen over the soft metal further trapping the easy-out

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 6:28 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
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Location: northern NJ, USA
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First, drain down the coolant so there's none in the head. Use an oxy-acetylene torch with a welding tip adjusted for neutral or slightly oxidizing flame. Heat the center of the stud red hot, and keep the flame on it for another 15-30 seconds to allow the heat to conduct all the way through the stud. Now let it cool for an hour until cold. Don't quench it! The stud should now be softened and drillable. Get a piece of 5/8" flat steel stock and drill a 5/16" hole 1/4" through, and 1/8" diameter the rest of the way through. This will be your drilling guide. You'll have to either clamp it to the head with some large C-clamps, or else fabricate it in an "L" shape so that the pocket is centered over the stud and the long arm of the "L" fits between the rows of studs, By fitting between the rows, you can use the studs or bolts to clamp the drilling guide in place. Now use a 1/8" *left-hand* drill bit to drill through the center of the stud. Remember to reverse the drill! You'll have to stop and remove the guide to clear the chips several times. Use a drop of cutting oil on the drill bit. Left-hand bits are available from industrial suppliers (www.mscdirect.com etc.). If you get lucky, the stud will begin to unscrew as you drill. If it does, stop and remove the drilling guide. Once you drill through the stud, reheat it with the torch until its red hot, then let it cool until cold. Redrill the guide 1/4" diameter. Repeat the procedure using a 1/4" *left-hand* drill bit. There's a very good chance that the stud will unscrew while drilling. If it doesn't, you should at this point be able to peel the male thread loose and remove it using needlenose pliers.

Have patience! Heating the stud causes it to expand. But the expanding metal is constrained by the surrounding cool casting. This forces the stud to distort and expand lengthwise. After it cools and shrinks back to its original density, the diameter will be smaller and the metal will have lost its hardness. Heating it after there's a hole in the center will produced a more pronounced diameter shrinkage. Do not attempt to drill or do anything to the stud while it is still warm; until it cools completely it will have a tighter fit while hot than in its original cool state! Quenching the hot metal will re-harden it; slow cooling is required.

Using the drilling guide ensures that the female threads won't be damaged by the drill wandering off. Note that when drilling relatively hard metal (steel) embedded in relatively soft metal(cast iron), if the drill encounters soft metal, it will wander completely into the soft metal. You won't be able to control the drill bit direction by hand.

If you booger it, you'll need to remove the head and drill out the remaining stud on a milling machine, using a center-cutting end mill. The hole will have to be drilled and tapped to accept a Heli-Coil, or if its in a water passage, a plug will have to be screwed in and secured with red Loctite, and a new hole tapped in the plug. Its much easier to have patience while you judiciously use a torch and drill.

I don't recommend the use of an EZ-Out on a 5/16" stud because as the tool bites into the stud, the stud will expand and hold tighter.

As an alternative, and provided that the stud protrudes at least slightly above the gasket surface, you can place a 5/16" not over the stud and use a stick or MIG welder to fill the nut and weld it to the stud. Again, let it slow cool completely before attempting to turn the nut. If it won't initially turn, try applying torque while hitting the top of the nut with a BFH. Repeat using progressively more torque and hammer force. You can hook the box end of one wrench into the open end of the other to gain leverage. This will break loose all but the worst corroded threads.

Ken
:-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:10 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:35 am
Posts: 168
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The easiest way to get it out if it is sticking our slightly is to weld a nut on the end.

Atleast yours is one of the easy ones to get to I had to drill and tap the second bottom hole from the front out to a 7/16 stud to get it to work then I had to grind me a washer down to fit. I didn't pull the head or anything to do this. Just have to have a steady hand and a good drill.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:14 am 
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2010 3:06 pm
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Location: PORT WASHINGTON WI
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OK I will try again today


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:42 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 345
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
SOB< this JUST happened to me! The darn #1 exhaust stud broke about 5mm deep. so I center drilled the stud and put in a #2 extractor (milwaukee brand, looks like a conical bolt) well the darn thing snapped inside and now I have an all but undrillable chunk of tool steel stuck in the hole. I guess ill get a tiny carbide rasp and go to town with the die grinder...never fails, the last one breaks!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
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Location: Central Valley, California
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So what is the lesson here when you have a stud that won't budge? Put the torch to it before you break it?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 12:32 am 
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So what is the lesson here when you have a stud that won't budge?
Quit while you're ahead, i.e., before you attempt to use an "EZ-Out". See here.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:40 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 345
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
Quote:
So what is the lesson here when you have a stud that won't budge? Put the torch to it before you break it?
Uh no, the stud broke because the nut was seized and you cant really tell whats going to break free first, the nut or the stud. If the exhaust nut is supposed to be on 10 ft/lbs, you would think the nut would give before a 5/16 steel rod breaks.....Thanks for the lesson.


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