I thought I had some, but can't seem to find it, and must buy new I suppose. Recommendations on this one? I promise to take the advice of recognized experts on this one, and not go into adolescent rebellion.


I am always surprised at how many varieties there are of every kind of fluid, and feel pretty much out of it as far as knowing what is for what. With my newer cars I actually go to the dealer, and get their product, since I know it will be the right formulation for my car. I can't seem to find the Dart dealers around here any more.
Sam

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i just put "lucus" rearend oil in says on bottle no addative needed for posi

Hi Sam.
Red Line Synthetic 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil is my choice, it's an extremely slippery lube - improving mileage - and also contains the necessary friction modifiers for the sure-grip.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Thanks Olaf. I will try to track it down. On their search engine, nobody within 30 miles of me sells it. I suppose I can order it and have it shipped. Tommy, the guy who may install this also recommended the Redline oil.

Sam

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I buy the oil from Summit myself.

BTW Sam, I know that you and the other guys will get hickups from hearing I buy that oil in US in small quantities and ship it here, but I have a shipping agent who gave me a so called freight forwarder address in New Jersey where I can collect goods from different sources, and then ship it to Norway as one single package in a container by sea - dead slow but dirt CHEAP!
Norway is a good place to live, but it is also probably one of the most expensive countries in the world, so a lot of things you guys think is really expensive in USA, is very, very low priced compared to here!
That Red Line oil costs more than US $32.00 per LITRE here! Even adding the freight to a single gallon of oil (Summit=$39.65), it is cheaper for me to by it from USA!
Mounting valve seat in cyl. head, incl. seat: US $130.00. EACH!
Engine work shop, work not specified in price list: US $196.00, per started hour, minimum one half hour paid for!
And I am honestly one of the really poor guys here!

Welcome to gagaland...

Olaf

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Aspenized

Ship the head to the USA, get the work done, ship it back..................

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Or just buy a used head here and have the work done then ship it there.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I already got the valves and springs from engnbldr, and I may try doing the job myself, or in combination with the help of some local contacts, but yes, getting a cylinder head in USA and have the work done by someone with a good reputation would probably be the best solution.
In the '60's and '70's they assembled Valiants across the border in Sweden (popular as police car), and Valiant/Darts and later the Aspen/Volares were very popular here at a time when the dollar was weak relative to the norwegian currency, lots of them were used as taxis. But finding parts over here now is beginning to be really difficult, and with the prices for doing any work in a shop, those who cannot do a little work themselves ends up with an old Dart costing as much as a new Rolls Royce!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Sorry for highjacking your thread, Sam, just got carried away a little!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Its all good. Not to worry.

Sam

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I always add some "friction modifier" of some kind to a SG rear (or trac lok or whatever). I used to get the Mopar green modifier (dinosaur snot), but lately I've used something from Advance Auto for limited slips. Have had some clutch chatter/wheel hop on corners if not using such an additive.

Lou

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