BBD will not work. The float needle/seat is also the fuel inlet fitting. It will not flow enough fuel. Kept running the float bowl down, and going lean. First bad tune, first burned piston.

Tunning is easier, today, then back in 1979, when I did mine. Now there are O2 sensors, boost retard boxes, water/meth injection. I didn't have that available when I did mine. Just the water/meth injection, which was just a windshield washer system, with the nozzles spraying in the carb.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

With anything there is a lot of experimentation. In this case, there is not much "out of the box" for a turbo slant 6. There are blow thru carbs on the market and are expensive. There will be a lot of tuning/learning that needs to be done regardless if it is a carb or EFI. What works on one engine may not respond or act the same on another engine.

You can use the stock manifold and it will work well. I chose to build a header to see if it made a performance difference. Your MPG should still be good with a turbo installed.

When I started my project, I had zero turbo experience. It just boils down to getting dirty and figuring it out.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

What do you guys recommend for CFM on a 4 barrel? 575? 600+? I am only going to start with about 8psi but after a while I become more adventurous and want to up the boost so something that would work at 8psi but still flow enough for higher boost later. Also I want mechanical secondaries not vacuum ones right?

Agreeed, I will update my compressor to a 76 when possible.

I don't think you will get 300hp very easily with only 8psi. This will take alot of head work and in my (cheap) opinion, get a bigger turbo and put more boost in it. Mine was chassis dynoed at 370 HP at 23 psi boost with a 2bbl (1/2 of my Demon) This is only 290 cfm and ran an 11.48. If you do go with a Demon 575, be prepared to work on it. I have now found out from BG that the carb is only tunable up to 18 psi. After that it's uncharted territory. I did get it figured though. Good Luck.
Later
Ryan

All this a still the crank and bearings haven't been out of the engine since Mother Mopar put it together in 1972!

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
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Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

Ryan what bigger turbo would you recommend? The map for the 60-1 says it will hit 300hp at 8psi but just barely. I don't think I'll stick with 8psi forever, I just wanted to start smaller and work my way up since I am not familiar with turbocharging as far as setting up a motor for one. I'd rather know that 8psi will cause detonation that build the motor and throw a bunch of boost at it blindly and have it blow up. I guess I want to make sure that I can get this motor to run 8spi and get it tuned right before going higher. Just playin it safe I suppose. I have actually thought about going somewhat bigger so that whenever I do up the boost I will be closer to the middle of the center island. Something like a T70 or a T76 would support that idea however I am worried about it being laggy. BG actually make blow thru carbs, I don't know if thats what you have or not but they say they are already setup like they need to be but of course you can get extra parts to get a better tune. I had thought about getting one of these carbs but they are pricy at $588 from Jegs but since I do not know how to modify a standard carb to support boost, I would pay the money to reduce the chance of hurting the engine because I didn't modd the carb right or something. Again just playin it safe. Anyway one of the T70s will make (support) something like 400hp at 8psi which is awesome. Even at 10psi it makes alot. Ultimately Shaker didn't even make 300hp or just barely hit it and ran high 12s and I would be THRILLED to run that in a slant. I'd say it would brush off most stock cars including stock LS1 cars which yes I know I had to throw a turbo at my car to run with a STOCK LS1 and of course a slightly modded LS1 would easily claim a win back from me. But hey I wouldn't have near the money invested in my car that it would take just to buy a stock LS1 car so even if one beat me I'd be happy just to hang with one in an old slant.

Your heading in the right direction, but getting a little too invested in "theoretical" numbers and charts. When they advertise that Edelbrock RPM heads will add 50hp, that is limited to the cam and how tired or fresh the engine is. So, getting back to the idea that the engine is a giant air pump, the turbocharger system doesn't make the power, it amplifies how much air can get into the "pump". So yes adding a large frame turbo will increase lag and most likely provide peak numbers that in exchange ruin mid range where it all counts.

That all being said, I looked through the Turbonetics and choose that two (60-1 and TO4E-50) turbos for a couple reasons. It should support your goal of around 300hp at a 10lbs of boost setting, and show very impressive at your starting 6-8lbs. Also, it will go up to 15lbs very well with nothing but power gains. The big reason we look through compressor maps is to search through our goals and eliminate excessive heat, unstable "surge", and lag. So spend the rest of your time tuning and find the right turbocharger than getting a large frame.

This was 296 Rear wheel HP. The engine had a miss and probably could have made more if I had figured it out at the dyno. Using a 20% drivetrain loss this tranlates into a 370 crank HP. Still this is just theory. With the 87 Turbo and less then optimized exhaust the car went 104.49mph. ET was 12.95 but was a factor of the skinny tires. Better tires and it could have gone 12.50ish according to the mph charts.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Shaker I am confused. If I recall correctly you said in a past post that your car made something like 253hp on a dyno which would be rwhp. That is why I have refered to you running such good times while barely making 300hp(flywheel). But now your telling me you made almost 300 WHEEL hp and 370 flywheel. Am I missing something?

"At the last dyno session with the tbo348 I made 253rwhp and 338rwtq"

Is the 296 wheel hp from your current setup that your running 11.02s with? That would make more sense. If so I was refering to your old setup with the GN turbo running high 12s in my previous post:)

Hey all been awhile since this thread was commented on but I've been considering something and I want to see what the rest of you think.

I have been thinking lately about perhaps using E85 with my turbo setup. I was thinking that since it has alcohol (corn) that it would burn cooler kinda like the alcohol that the pros use. My idea was that it would be useful in keeping detonation down kind of like using meth injection. I am also wondering if I did use it how much cooler could it make the charge and keep detonation down? Anyone using E85 with their performance build or turbo setup?
My biggest want for E85 of course is because its cheaper than regular gas and so if I can get cheaper gas and be able to get more power out of it thats a win-win for me. I have heard that with E85 you want to run more compression but with a turbo setup you can't run much and at full boost the compression ratio raises anyway although I don't know how much. I've heard a lot and I've heard not much on how much it raises it. Anyway does anyone see any problems with using this?

296rwhp was the last dyno session with the old motor and a pte 6262DBB turbo...... The 11.02 is a new engine only but the same exhaust/turbo as before. The new engine is making (calculates) 470-480 crank HP...assuming 20% drivetrain loss then it is making 380 rwhp.

E85 is good stuff. Lots of guys go fast. Cheap and good octane.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

The 296rwhp had an engine miss that was sorted out before the track. This was holding the engine back at the dyno as it would not go over 4000 rpm. This old combo did eventually go 11.77 @ 116mph.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

You will want to run more compression with E85 around 9.5:1 to start with. I am building my motor now and using K1 rods and Wiseco pistons for my turbo build. I will be running around 30 lbs of boost and a static compression of 10.5 to 11:1. I will be running straight alky though. You also need to consider that you need 2.3 times more fuel when running alky so a good pump is a must. I will be running a C&S belt driven pump to supply my fuel.

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Raymond Flynn
Registered Six Offender!!!!

Check out this web site if you want to do the E85 thing.http://www.e85performance.net/forums/index.php

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Raymond Flynn
Registered Six Offender!!!!

Take a look at the S362 Turbo as well a lot of people look past it but it is a good option for a slant.

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Raymond Flynn
Registered Six Offender!!!!

My 2 cents and being on the phone with turbonetics and talking to tom and ryan as well as others on here about turbos.
the 60-1 would run out of steam for what you want i believe "thats why i didnt buy a used one i found for 400bucks"
The 62-1 with a 68a/r housing was recomended for me by turbonetics if you plan on shooting for higher boost levels. Of course we know the pte6262 and ryans garret work well also thats why i'm getting a pte6262 or something in the neighborhood of one because my build is based off toms kinda sorta, since he still drives the beast to the track and back.

Kev

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