Hi Guys, The car is running with MS II, and drivable. I have been very pleasantly surprised at how easy this set up was to get going. There are a few challenges, and a surprising deletion from the tuning choices in the code variant. This current combination of tuning softwware and my hardware make it very difficutl to tell what the A/F ratio is.

With the old tuning software, which will not talk to this ECU, the narrow band O2 sensor feedback was presented as anolague. It showed me the actual voltage of the O2 sensor which varies from 0-1 volt.you can use the table such as Ed showed us some time back that, although not perfect will provide rough estimates of AF ratio for voltages on a narrow band O2 sensor. The current software simply shows a two value, digital readout, above .5 volts, and below, which is actually all the ECU itself cares about when in use. But I had learned to use that with Mega Squirt and Mega Tune after the wide band gauge died. . I miss it.

There is another firmware version for my ECU which I can download which will show me the voltage of the O2 sensor (I think). I could also hook up a simple volt meter to the sensor output and read that, I suppose.

The other issue is that this firmware and ini. file combo does not allow me to set the switch point on the O2 sensor, which I really would like to do. This compensates for O2 sensor variations, which are actually pretty dramatic in the real world. This particular sensor registers .7 volts at 14.8 A/F ratio. That would be very rich with a proper sensor. So, on the old ECU I had set the switch point to .7. Before I made the change to .7, the O2 sensor feedback mode would try to lean it out, thinking it was running rich.

My wide band gauge is broken. I need to crawl under the dash, with the seat out, and get the wires for it out of there, and send it back to Inovate for a diagnostic check. Next time I install it, I will not run the wires in such a hard place to get to. I foolishly assumed better reliability. I will put the majority of the wires under the hood instead of under the dash, and simply bring one wire in to the gauge. To fix this would give me excellent feedback. And, it can be wired directly to the ECU so it sees a much broader range of feedback values. Then I could set it to auto tune, (after I pay Tuner Studio $40), and it will tune itself while it drive.

So, until I fix the wide band gauge, I cannot do any real serious tuning. However, one of my employees went cruising with me last night, and he fiddled with the fuel map for two hours while I drove to Baltimore and back, and things are at least pretty drivable right now. They are far from ideal, but you can drive it. The 3d map looks pretty ragged though, which I assume means there are some bad values in there for sure. We did not tune at all in the boost range. It runs very poorly there, and, based on comparisons with the old MS VE table, it looks like the default VE values are too high. But it was late, and we were getting tired, so we put that off till another time. No WOT blasts yet. That's the whole story for now.

Sam

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Sam
That sounds really encoraging. I am looking at purchasing the MS II as well so am following this closely. Although you may possess more computer skill than I do.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I don't think anyone has lower computer skills than I do. Don't let that discourage you. ONe step at a time is the order of the day.

I finally pulled the front seat, pulled part of the dash, crawled under the dash, and fished the wiringfor the Inovate LC-1 out of there to send back. I will put it under the hood next time!

Sam

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