Purchased Grannies 78 Volare. 54K emaculate in and out. Drove 90 miles. Car would die around corners. Had Carb kit installed on this super six, with Carter BBD, new wires, plugs electronic modual, resistor, fuel filter and basic tune up. Car then ran like crap. Bucking and chugging no power lots of hesitation. Ordered reman carb. No help. Mechanic suggested Valve job. Ordered Re-man head. No luck. Tried new autolite plugs gaped to .035 and better plug wires. No help. New coil, no help. Intake has been plained, so ordered reman carb, no help. Timing double checked, NAPA reman Dizzy, new cap and rotor, Electronic modual, and resistor, no help. Car bucks and dies, smells gassy. readjusted the mixture on carb, double checked reman carb settings. No help. Have order NOS dizzy from old car parts in washington, its on the way.
What have we missed? Timing is dead on 12'BTDC. carb set to specs. Wires, plugs, head vaccum all check out. HELP I'm drowning here. Car to nice to use dynamite, but am tempted to throw in the towel and part her out.

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

Double check the valve lash adjustment, .010 on the intakes & .020 on the exhaust.
If the valve lash is not set correctly... the engine will run like crap and no amount of carb, timing or tuning work will help.

Sad to say that adjusting mechanical lifter engines is becoming a "lost art"... not many of today's mechanics have ever done that job or at least, they have never done it on a SL6.
DD

The engine dying around corners is usually a fuel problem and frequently only a float level issue. If carburetor work made it run worse then you need to back up and figure out if you've worsened one problem or created another. Start troubleshooting. Shotgunning parts at the car is expensive and usually has poor results. Most remanufactured carburetors are junk. After doing a compression test and adjusting the valve clearance I would look carefully at the carburetor.

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Joshua

dittos on the reman carbs.....search this forum for horror stories about them.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Thanks fellas. I did have the valve lash done once already, but this was done prior to the intake being machined. The young guy who did the vavle lash, had also set the timing to 20'BTDC. Stating he was an expert on slant 6's I took him at his word. Maybe he's and expert at BS.

One point of interest. The car does not buck when you got your foot in it, accelerating, but as soon as you let off the gas, she bucks badly. She ideals now better at 12' in neutral, but as soon as I put her in gear she dies. So could be the ideal spped needs to be raised, but again I agree vavle lash maybe a good place to start. There seems to be an arguement between mech's. One says electrical issue others say, carb. But maybe as simple as vavle lash off.

I also agree on the reman carb and plan to put the rebuilt carb back on and give it a try. I do believe the floot setting was off before I started to do this work.

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

Is the gas old? from sitting in storage? or has this car been driven frequently?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Gas is new. Not a daily driver. Granny hardly drove the car. Its emaculate but runs like crap unless you put your foot in it. Give it gas and she goes well enough but only under acceleration. This is an improvement now that timing is set back to specs. Take your foot off the gas and she stumbles and bucks.

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

20 degree btdc may be to much

with a gas smell i would look towards the float.a car can still run but hesitate.also might look at fuel pump,if a diapham gets weak it will still start a car and you can drive it but can hesitate from not enought fuel

I agree with Doc.The FIRST thing I ever do to a slant that doesnt run right is a CORRECT valve adjustment.Useally stops the need for new wires,cap,rotor,spark plugs,dist,carb,coil,fuel pump,ballast resistor,dropping tank.
Confirming a correct valve adjustment is the foundation of a great running slant..Guzzi Mark

Hi LogansRun. Fuel pump! Take a look at my recent adventure with some of the same problems that you have, text in red is a clickable link, like this one. You may find the answer to your problems there.

And welcome to the forum, as you can see from the response, you've come to the right place!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

look at the simple stuff too,, like the sequencing of the spark plug wires,,,

Fuel pump was where I was thinking too.

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'66 Dart Wagon 270, 225ci/904, Survivor!!
'68 Dart Hardtop, 383/727 & 3:91 gears

/6ers, I appreciate all the suggestions and help.
With improvements made, we're not yet 100%. 1978 volare 225 super six with automatic, still bucks while in cruise or just trying to maintain speed. Seems while in third only. Under load in 1st or 2nd or while accelerating, everything seems fine. New, autolite plugs, wires, new cap & rotor and NOS dizzy. reman carb, new reman head, Intake exhaust manifolds plained. Valve lash set, though not rechecked. new fuel filter and fresh gas, new air filter, new electroinc moduel, new resistor, new belts, vacuum hoses. Timing reset to 12' btdc, New thermostat, new antifreeze, oil, filter. New battery, New tires, brakes, shocks even new U joints. Geez this should cover it.
Though I probably left something out. 54k on this Volare of Grannies
Items Not yet changed, fuel pump, catalytic converter, muffler.

The NOS dizzy from Old Car parts NW arrived, and is set smack on .006. I found the reman Dizzy's pick-up I had on car was gapped at .010. I also found a small vacuum leak in vac hose for the power brakes.

I have yet to return to the original rebuilt Carb. Fuel pump? Now this is the one item that I have not changed. I seem to have plenty of fuel, but maybe as suggested the diaphram is weak.

Under load or while accelerating the 225 operates fine, yet seems as if its being held back a little. What remains puzzlings is this bucking & kicking once up to speed in third. This can be at 27, or 65 and anywhere in between. Once in third, she bucks. Floor it and it improves immediately.

Much improved with the NOS dizzy set to .006 and timing set to 12' BTDC.

One friend says we need to determine if harmonic balancer has slipped. Why on earth would have the previous young mechanic have advanced the timing to 20' BTDC? . I was then thinking, could have the young fellow set the valve lash wrong, possibly mixed up the back 6 valves forgetting, the two intakes in the middle & then valves reverse sequence. ei,ei,ei,ie,ie,ie? But would this not effect operation up all the time? not probable?

I will try the fuel pump as its the last item remaining. I have good spark on all 6 at ideal. Could I have possible got a bad electronic moduel? but would this effect firing operation all the time? There is no more pinging now that timing is set. It appears I had or have a multitude of issues to resolve and iron out. I am still open to suggestions. Will change the fuel pump as suggested, put the rebuilt carb back on, though doubt it will change anything, check the harmonic balancer for slippage and if all that fails maybe even try another new electronic moduel. Still stumped!

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

It may sound like you can have too much ignition advance from the vacuum canister at your distributor. The canister is fed ported vacuum, which is at it's highest when cruising. If your base ignition setting is high, it may be over-advanced with full vacuum to the canister, but in that case you should hear pinging noises as well (in my Aspen it sounds like a faint rattling, as if the oil pipes running forward from the 904 are clanging together). Try running with the vacuum hose from the carb to the dizzy disconnected and plugged at the dizzy end, that will tell immediately if it is over-advanced and instantly solve your problem, and cannot be harmful in any way.

Some other things you should add to the todo-list; start at the source of the fuel supply.
Is the ventilation tube running forward to the charcoal canister open and functional?
The fuel tank - is it clean inside or full of gunk?
Is the filter on the fuel pickup tube inside the tank in place, and does it work?

Fuel pump test:(from the 1978 manual)
The fuel pump should have 10 inches of vacuum on the suction side with the hose/pipe to the carburetor disconnected.
The pressure in the line with carburetor connected should be constant and stable at 3.5 - 5 psi @ idle, and slowly drop to zero when the engine is stopped.
It should be able to deliver 1 quart of fuel in a minute.

Olaf

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Aspenized