I have a 64 Valiant, I had the motor rebuilt and put it in a few days ago. Before I had it rebuilt it started up just fine just didn't sound so good. We got every thing in and hooked up now the dog-gone thing sound worse than before it was rebuilt. It runs a little on the hot side and there seems to be a thump like hitting a hollow log on the passenger side around the fuel pump. It smokes! We are having the people that rebuilt it come next week to find out what's wrong and to fix it or you know what is going to break loose! We are NOT pulling that motor again!! What a nightmare.
If they don't fix it....... it's for sale!

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Pastalliantvaliant
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Have you adjusted the valves? Is the timing set correctly? Did you check the vibration dampener for timing mark accuracy? We don't know what is going to break loose, if anything, unless we get some better info from you or get to see some pictures of the inside of the block.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No I didn't adjust the valves I assumed the re-builders did. Yes the timing is correct as far as I can tell. Yes the vibration dampener is correct. I don't have pictures of the inside, when I got it back it was put together. I just had to put the outer parts on like valve cover, manifolds, oil pump, oil pan, distributor and so forth. How do you post pictures? And......h#ll will break loose. Thanks for the help.

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Pastalliantvaliant
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Well, you need to adjust the valves with the motor running once it has been broken in. The motor rebuilder can't do that for you on a slant six with a solid lifter camshaft.

When you first start a rebuilt solid lifter slant six, you have to do a "cold lash" on the valves. THis means turning the motor over by hand while you adjust the valves. This only gets the valves in the ballpark. You then must start the motor and go through the new engine break-in process. Once the motor is broken in and you can lower the idle to curb idle speeds, you must set the valve lash with the motor running and operating at full temperature.

How are you checking the timing? It either will or won't be correct.

Did you get a new vibration dampener or use the old one? No matter which one you you used, you should get a piston stop tool and verify that the timing mark on the vibration dampener is truly at TDC and it hasn't slipped over the years (if original) or been manufactured in the wrong place (if new).

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

To learn how to post a picture, and other helpful info, go to the "Jump to:" box at the bottom of the page, and go to How To Use This Message Board.
I hope they straighten that out for you.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Double check the firing order,the S/6 is different from most other 6cyls. and I've seen it wrong because a mechanic went by memory.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Firing order on most all inline six cyl engines is 1 5 3 6 2 4

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thank you, the firing order is correct. I think something is wrong with the re-build of the engine. One of the cylinders is not hitting. I am having it checked out Wednesday.

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Pastalliantvaliant
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Did you adjust the valves?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Double-check to see that all the valves have at least, some lash clearance.
If not, that valve will hang open and the cylinder will not fire.
(at least, check the valve lash on the cylinder that is not firing)
DD

No, didn't get it to run right long enough to do anything. I took a compression test and the #2 cylinder showed 0. So I removed the valve cover and discovered the valve was stuck in it's guide. Also push rod was bent, lifter was out of it's bore. The rebuild guy came and confirmed valve got stuck in it's guide which cause this chain reaction. I rapped on the valve with a hammer when spring was up, valve sank first two shots and then started bouncing as it should. We were able to put the lifter back in it's bore. Now he is on the hunt for a push rod and will try a restart before we go to the next step and pull the head. Pray or cross your finger which ever one you do! LOL!

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Pastalliantvaliant
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Is there any know way to add clearance between valve stem and valve guide with out pulling the head? Lube etc.?

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Pastalliantvaliant
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Bring that piston up to TDC.
Remove the valve spring & retainer with a special "from the top" spring compressor.
Use an electric drill and chuck it onto the top of the tight valve stem.
Spin the valve and work it up & down. while appling light oil or solvent.
(Be careful to not let go and dropping the valve stem below the top of the guide)
Apply some motor oil, re-install the spring and test.
DD

I have extra pushrods if you need one, send PM.

Cool, Thanks! Just really don't want to pull that head.

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Pastalliantvaliant
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