Hello everyone, its been a long time since I last posted on this board. This will also be my first attempt at posting pictures so hopefully it works out. Here is the background, 1982 D150 with 225 that I decided to pull out and rebuild (low compression in 2 cylinders). Anyway I have a little extra cash right now so I decided to hop up the motor a little bit, nothing extreme just some headwork, larger cam, etc. not trying to build a race motor just something that is still plenty reliable and has a little pep to it. I tore everything down and put the head back on the block to check the cylinder bore alignment with the combustion chamber on the head and what I found was that cylinder 1 was lined up perfectly but as you move down the block, it gets a bit worse as it goes along, 1st is the best, 6th is the worst. In the blocks article, Doug Dutra talks about boring the cylinders to fix this problem but won't it just make them the same amount off if everything is bored the same amount? Should I just try and find a new block or what? Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Cylinder 1
[img]<a%20href="http://s1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Donahuenc/Dodge%20D150/?action=view&current=IMGP1399.jpg"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Donahuenc/Dodge%20D150/IMGP1399.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="Photobucket"></a>[/img]
Cylinder 6
[img]<a%20href="http://s1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Donahuenc/Dodge%20D150/?action=view&current=IMGP1395.jpg"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Donahuenc/Dodge%20D150/IMGP1395.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="Photobucket"></a>[/img]

You might try pulling the alignment dowel pin out of the back of the block and see if you might reposition the head. If you can use an off set dowel, like adjusting the cam timing.

Richard
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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

O/T: Cool photo. Mind if I adapt it for use as an avatar?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Yeah if you want to use the picture, go for it. I haven't had a chance to try much today on the alignment but I should have some time tomorrow so Ill try then.

slantvaliant: So that is what Slanty looks like! Perhaps it could be used as the board's mascot.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

For your purpose I dont think you need to worry about the little bit of shift. If it really bothers you use an offset dowel as suggested earlier.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Hi, there!



I kinda like it.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Seems like you have a slight "side to side" shift, at the rear dowel pin, from looking at the photos.
You can likely adjust most of it out by using an off-set dowel pin in the rear block location.
If you still have a little of the sharp edge(s) hanging into the cylinder(s) after adjusting the head's position, dye / scribe those areas and grind the sharp edge(s) off.
DD

Thanks everyone, Ill give the offset dowel pins a shot, I'd like to stay away from boring it if possible just because I've been reading a lot on this forum and it seems it won't make much of a difference in my application (what about 7 ci for .060 over?) plus my cylinders really aren't bad, just need a good hone.

I pulled the dowl out of the block ,drilled the hole bigger and pounded some brass round stock in hole and filed smooth.Re drilled hole over a little and re installed dowel.Mark